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NEW IN TOWN: Plat 99

by Trisha Brand — Fri, 22 Mar 2013 12:00:00 GMT

Located on the second level of the modern Alexander hotel, the high-end hot cocktail spot Plat 99 is fantastically hip (or annoying, depending on your disposition for designer libations). The sparkling space exudes catalog-cool, with white-on-chrome community tables, soft, low-slung chairs, colorful Mexican tile, and brightly colored lanterns.

Chic snacks like oysters, sushi, and cheese and meat boards are served at the bar, along with short-rib paninis, pork arepas, and foie gras profiteroles. And a spirit of historical authenticity guides the cocktails. General manager Michael Gray (formerly of The Libertine) has made sure of that, with a timeline-themed menu based on the year the libation was invented.

Feeling Victorian? Order an Absinthe concoction, served with a sugar cube and water. Or go back to the 1980s and slurp on a tart Cosmopolitan. If you were going to dress the part, though, we’d prefer to see petticoats and crinoline, not spandex and Aqua Net hair-poufs. 333 S. Delaware St., 855-200-3002.

Photo by Tony Valainis

This article appeared in the March 2013 issue.

TOP FIVE: Indy's Real Irish Pubs

Thu, 14 Mar 2013 20:23:00 GMT

1. Connor’s Pub
6331 Ferguson St., 317-255-5039
The clientele at this Irish dive bar in Broad Ripple ranges from hippies to post-match hurling teams. (Hurling is the national sport of Ireland, you know.) Order the fried cheese balls and enjoy the show.

2. Pat Flynn’s
5198 Allisonville Rd., 317-475-0181
Don’t expect a lot of Emerald Isle tchotchkes here. Just a friendly, low-key pub vibe and traditional fare like Irish stew and shepherd’s pie.

3. Brockway Public House
12525 Old Meridian St., Carmel, 317-669-8080
This far-north “industrial pub” draws a loyal following with its fish ’n’ chips, Celtic fiddle performances, and European League Soccer nights.

4. McGinley’s Golden Ace Inn
2533 E. Washington St., 317-632-0696
Opened in 1934 by Irish immigrants, the Golden Ace has a no-frills decor and 10-item menu, but the crowd spills out to the adjoining lot for St. Patty’s weekend.

5. Claddagh Irish Pub
Several locations
The chain-enforced Irish knickknacks covering the walls do not distract from Claddagh’s hearty stews and curries, batter-dipped fish ’n’ chips, and the bar’s very busy Jameson taps.

Claddagh Irish Pub photo by Michael Schrader

This article appeared in the March 2013 issue.

SECOND COURSE: Dunaway's Is Refined & Dandy

by Terry Kirts — Thu, 28 Feb 2013 20:41:00 GMT

The crabcake was an inauspicious start. Ensconced as we were in the dark-paneled Fireplace Room of Dunaway’s Palazzo Ossigeno, with gentle flames licking the intricately carved hearth and the candelabra twinkling, we were looking for some evidence that this shrine to Indy’s industrial past—which made a splash when former St. Elmo co-owner Jeff Dunaway opened the sleek eatery in 1998—still had some culinary chops. The appetizer did little to restore our faith: a flat puck of over-mixed crab, its too-smooth exterior wearing an insipid remoulade. At $13, it almost seemed a crime.

Then the salads arrived, and we sat up and took notice. A classic wedge came bathed in a refreshing, lighter-than-expected bleu-cheese dressing. The goat-cheese salad was showered in tiny cubes of Cabernet-poached beets and tossed in a bracing sherry vinaigrette. Here, finally, were signs that Christopher Bator, Dunaway’s latest in a line of chefs, might have the palate and savvy to bring back some of the glory of the early Dunaway’s, when the food more closely matched the impressive decor.

A former private chef to golf legend Tiger Woods and recently incarcerated playboy investor Tim Durham, Bator was a bold choice to rekindle the interest of crowds beyond game-day fans and corporate party planners, the restaurant’s bread and butter. While he says he has plans to bring local produce and in-house charcuterie to the staid chophouse menu, he has so far mostly refined the status quo. Entrees are especially improved under his watch. A brined pork chop has an almost airy quality to it, juicy and well-seasoned with hearty polenta cakes and sauteed apples as tasty complements. A bone-in Kansas City strip is noticeably beefy and generous, with crisp, golden fingerling potatoes providing a welcome alternative to mashed spuds or fries. Deeply seared scallops retain a lush opaque center, and the accompanying lemon beurre blanc, while rich, marries wilted spinach and tender asparagus well with bits of pancetta.

Bator is also working the pastry station now, upgrading such playful interpretations as banana “pie,” an upright pastry cuff filled with a light pistachio cream and topped with sweet bruleed bananas. The night we ordered it, our amiable waiter and self-appointed house mixologist Jared stole around the archway from the bar brandishing a cocktail shaker. In it, he mixed for us ice-cold shots of a housemade banana liquor with such a lovely natural sweetness to it, we toasted to the old days and told ourselves we would be back for more.

Dunaway’s Palazzo Ossigeno
351 S. East St., 638-7663, dunaways.com
HOURS Mon.–Sat. 5–10 p.m.

Photos by Tony Valainis

This article appeared in the March 2013 issue.

FLAVOR OF THE MONTH: Meatball Recipe

by Trisha Brand — Thu, 28 Feb 2013 20:51:00 GMT

Three-Meat Meatballs in Tomato Sauce

INGREDIENTS

1 1/2 pounds ground beef from Homestead Heritage (Kokomo)

1/2 pound ground veal from Strauss Brand Cooperative (Franklin, Wisconsin)

1/2 pound ground pork from Gunthorp Farms (LaGrange)

4 cloves garlic (3 minced, plus 1 whole clove)

2 tablespoons finely chopped flat-leaf parsley

2 large eggs

2 cups Pecorino Romano cheese, grated

1 cup panko breadcrumbs

1 1/2 cups water

1/2 teaspoon kosher salt

1/4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

1 cup extra virgin olive oil

1 1/2 jars Tomato & Herb Marinara Pasta Sauce from LocalFolks Foods (Sheridan)

10 nests Pappardelle from Nicole-Taylor’s Pasta and Market (Indianapolis), cooked according to package directions

DIRECTIONS

In a large bowl, combine beef, veal, pork, parsley, minced garlic, eggs, Pecorino Romano, breadcrumbs, salt, and pepper with your hands. Then, slowly add the water (1/2 cup at a time). The mixture should be very moist but still hold its shape when rolled into meatballs. (Typically, 1 1/2 cups of water are needed.) Shape the meatballs in your hands, about three ounces per meatball.

Heat oil and whole garlic clove in a large Dutch oven with lid over medium-high heat. When the clove starts to brown (or the temperature has reached just below the smoke point of 375 degrees), the oil is ready. Add meatballs; cook, turning occasionally, 5–7 minutes per side until golden brown. Cook the meatballs in a single layer (work two to three batches, if necessary). Don’t crowd them in the pan. Remove the cooked meatballs to a plate covered with paper towels. When all of the meatballs have been fried, discard the oil and garlic clove and wipe the pan clean. Return the meatballs to the pot and add tomato sauce to finish cooking. Let simmer, covered, for at least 45–60 minutes (or until the meatball center temperature reaches 160 degrees). Serve hot over cooked pasta. Serves approximately 10 (two meatballs and one pasta nest per serving).

WHERE TO BUY

MEAT: Pork, veal, and beef available at Goose the Market (2503 N. Delaware St., 317-924-4944)

PASTA: Pappardelle available at Nicole Taylor’s Pasta and Market (134 E. 54th St. 257-7374)

SAUCE: Tomato & Herb Marinara Pasta Sauce available at Good Earth Natural Foods (6350 Guilford Ave., 253-3709)

Photo by Tony Valainis

This article appeared in the March 2013 issue.

PREVIEW: Bakersfield Mass Ave

by Trisha Brand — Thu, 14 Mar 2013 21:07:00 GMT

Nestled in the former Bazbeaux space downtown, Bakersfield Mass Ave. promises Mexican fare, late-night dining, and a country-rock soundtrack this spring. Expect the Prada-gonia set camped out at the bar picking on pretty little handmade corn-tortilla tacos with achiote-braised pork, pickled red onions, habanero salsa, and cilantro and washing them down with Mason jars filled with fresh-squeezed margaritas. The menu will offer seven different street-style tacos, two tortas, two salads, and a few appetizers and soups. But Bakersfield will be as much a bar as a restaurant: This rustic-style joint will also offer 100 tequila and bourbon choices and vintage cocktails alongside $2 PBRs (served in a glass boot). If the second location of Bakersfield is anything like the original Cincinnati spot, anticipate crowds and long waits. 334 Massachusetts Ave., bakersfieldmassave.com

MORE: Here's our review from Bakersfield's soft-opening party on March 8.

Photo by Tony Valainis

This article appeared in the March 2013 issue.

TOP FIVE: Indy's Romantic Tables

Thu, 14 Feb 2013 15:45:00 GMT

1. Peterson’s
7690 E. 96th St., Fishers, 317-598-8863
Request the (way) out-of-the-way corner booth in this plush, low-lit dining room.

2. The Eagle’s Nest
Hyatt Regency, 1 S. Capitol Ave., 317-616-6170
A sexy, lounge-inspired revamp and that 360-degree view of the city make the rooftop restaurant’s sunken booths all the more dreamy.

3. Cerulean
339 S. Delaware St., 317-870-1320
At one end of the restaurant, an enclosed birchwood hut called “The Nest” makes for a cozy hideaway.

4. Vino Villa
200 N. Madison Ave., Greenwood, 317-882-9463
The second floor of this Victorian house–turned–wine shop is furnished with tables and deep sofas perfect for sampling your purchases.

5. Lorenzo’s Ristorante
15 E. Maryland St., 317-635-3096
The two-top next to the fireplace stokes the flames of love. Hot!

Cerulean photo by Tony Valainis

This article appeared in the February 2013 issue.

SECOND COURSE: The Aristocrat Is Fire Proof

by Terry Kirts — Wed, 30 Jan 2013 00:02:00 GMT

Few things disrupt the normal order of life like a fire. For local diners, the most jarring aspect of the August 2011 blaze that destroyed the kitchen and large swaths of the roof at The Aristocrat Pub & Restaurant was not the $3 million damage assessment, nor the heroic restoration effort that would ensue. It was that their beloved haunt would be shuttered for months. Late-night quaffing expeditions had to be moved. Sunday brunch plans were wrecked. Would the pub ever regain the lovably rustic charm of dark wood and stained glass?

And yet, The Aristocrat did rise from the ashes. The chummy snarl of customers now waiting inside is reminiscent of the old days, as crowds resumed almost immediately upon its reopening in October. The newly designed bar with more than 60 new taps is especially stunning. A gas-lit fireplace warms the main dining room. And the whole place is set aglow by a veritable archive of lighting styles, some that owner Rick Rising-Moore had kept in storage for years: metal-topped schoolhouse lights, Art Deco cut-glass pendants, glimmering sconces. Thankfully, nearby Fox Art Glass Studios was able to refurbish the iconic art-glass panels throughout the interior that caught all that flattering light.

A few breakfast dishes have been added, along with early-morning hours. Disappointingly, a survey of classic British fare lives up to the nation’s culinary repute: slightly mealy bangers with unremarkable mashed potatoes and unadorned peas straight from the bag.

Better bets are those idiosyncratic choices surely coined in Rising-Moore’s early days in the ’80s. The sweet-sharp combo of strawberries, candied walnuts, green onions, and bleu cheese still seems fresh in the classic Strawberry Blues salad. Sandwiches such as a hearty spinach melt with crunchy bits of bacon and rich spinach-artichoke dip, and a turkey Reuben mortared with cool coleslaw, also continue to hit the mark. Gnarly, golden, and stretching well beyond the bun, the Hoosier tenderloin must compete for the best in town, so deeply seasoned you can slice up the meat and pretend it’s the schnitzel you had once on a trip to Bavaria. The only evidence of culinary renovation on any of our visits may have been an unassuming blueberry buckle cake with big tunnels of juicy berries, a sweet cream-cheese filling, and a crunchy streusel topping. But the real crown to our meal was seeing an old friend back in action, newly attired for the decades ahead.

THE ARISTOCRAT PUB & RESTAURANT
5212 N. College Ave., 317-283-7388, aristocratpub.com
Hours Sun. 8 a.m.–10 p.m.; Mon.–Thurs. 8 a.m.–11 p.m.; Fri.–Sat. 8 a.m.–1 a.m.

Photos by Tony Valainis

This article appeared in the February 2013 issue.

FLAVOR OF THE MONTH: Pork Dumplings Recipe

by Trisha Brand — Wed, 30 Jan 2013 15:39:00 GMT

For the Filling

• 1 lb. ground pork

• 2 scallions, thinly sliced

• 1 cup Napa cabbage, finely chopped

• 4 garlic cloves, minced

• 2 tablespoons cilantro, minced

• 2 egg whites

• 2 tablespoons soy sauce

• 1 tablespoon toasted sesame oil

• 1 tablespoon vegetable oil

• 2 tablespoons cornstarch

• 1 teaspoon salt

• 1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

For the Dumplings

• 1 package round gyoza wrappers

• Vegetable oil (enough to cover pan)

• 2–3 cups chicken broth

• Chili sauce, for serving

• Soy sauce, for serving

Directions: Combine all filling ingredients in a mixing bowl and thoroughly mix by hand. Set bowl aside. On a dry, clean surface, fill each wrapper with one teaspoon of the filling. With a finger or basting brush, moisten the edge with water. Fold in half; pinch the edges together to seal. When sealing, make sure to squeeze the dumpling so that there is no air inside. Place dumplings on a baking sheet in a single layer and cover with a damp towel to keep them from drying out.

Heat vegetable oil in a large stainless-steel pan (with a lid) over medium heat. Use just enough oil to coat pan. Once the oil is heated, gently place 8 to 10 dumplings in pan. Keep uncovered. Do not touch for 2 minutes. Add 1/3 cup of chicken broth to pan. Reduce heat to low and cover immediately. Cook, covered, until most of the broth is absorbed and the wrappers are slightly translucent, about 6 to 8 minutes. Shake pan to loosen dumplings. Gently remove each one and place on a plate. Cover with aluminum foil until serving time. Deglaze the pan with water between batches. Serve warm with soy and chili dipping sauces. Makes 60–70 pot stickers.

Indy’s Top Asian Markets

Arirang Oriental Grocery Market (4771 N. Post Rd., 317-899-4152)

Asia Mart (6103 E. 86th St., 317-845-8892)

Brother’s Oriental Grocery (8209 Pendleton Pike, 317-898-6089)

Kim’s Oriental Grocery (8710 E. 21st St., 317-897-0678)

One World Market (8466 Castleton Corner Dr., 317-842-3442)

Sakura Mart (2450 E. 71st St., 317-726-1755)

Saraga International Grocery (3605 Commercial Dr., 317-388-9999)

Photo by Tony Valainis

This article appeared in the February 2013 issue.

SECOND COURSE: 10-01 Food & Drink's Broad Appeal

by Terry Kirts — Wed, 02 Jan 2013 14:09:00 GMT

In professional sports, the Comeback Player of the Year is awarded to the season’s most improved athlete. If the same distinction applied to the restaurant world, no turnaround would compare to Broad Ripple’s 10-01 Food & Drink, one of 2011’s most ambitious restaurant renovations. With its patio overlooking the strip, its sleek semi-open kitchen, and its lower-level bar, success should have been cemented from the start. But fumbles in the kitchen—including a change in chefs shortly after opening, as well as slapdash presentation—did not exactly portend a winning season. Stop in now, however, and you’ll see a new team on the rise.

Owner Natalie Wolfe and manager-partner Jeff Cart pulled off a coup when they brought in lauded toque Dan Dunville to rework their offerings in late Septem-ber. The onetime Meridian chef had built a loyal clientele for his elevated home cooking and was ripe to reconstruct what is surely his most diverse menu to date, with dishes ranging from a gussied-up grilled cheese to a steakhouse-worthy filet. Leave it to Dunville to reinterpret the restaurant’s motto of “Midwestern comfort food with a culinary twist”—which before meant flatbreads with funky, unbalanced sauces or mealy meatloaf obliterated by bland cheese—into perhaps the most creative, best-executed cuisine in Broad Ripple.

The menu added back some recognizable favorites with “twists” we welcomed: Wagyu beef on the stroganoff and local beer–braised pork belly. Mac ’n’ cheese with a bubbling crown of breadcrumbs became all the more decadent with embedded matchsticks of housemade sausage, and tomato bisque retained a bright undertone of summer despite a generous amount of cream. Jalapeño cornbread, one of the few holdovers, seemed even more moist and flavorful, with a nice golden crust and nuggets of beer-battered Brie in a thick cranberry compote on the side. And while Indiana natives might want more of the Cajun ham and less of the kale in the “Hoosier” spring rolls, these retained their light crunch, even when dipped in an addictive, creamy Dijon mustard sauce.

But nothing proves 10-01’s status as a culinary contender like the fried chicken, which our sometimes-absent but always frank and knowledgeable waiter was quick to recommend. Juicy and flavorful all the way to the bone and served in two generous pieces atop hearty mashed spuds and an earthy mushroom gravy, this is a consummate dish that requires no appetizer or finale.

10-01 FOOD & DRINK
1001 Broad Ripple Ave., 253-1001, 1001fooddrink.com
HOURS Tues.–Thurs. 11 a.m.–10 p.m., Fri.–Sat. 11 a.m.–11 p.m., Sun. 11 a.m.–10 p.m. (Sun. brunch until 3 p.m.)

Photos by Tony Valainis

This article appeared in the January 2013 issue.

FLAVOR OF THE MONTH: Mac 'n' Cheese Recipe

by Trisha Brand — Wed, 02 Jan 2013 14:21:00 GMT

SIX-CHEESE OVEN-BAKED MACARONI

Ingredients:

2 cups elbow macaroni, uncooked

4 tablespoons sweet butter (plus enough to grease the dishes)

¾ cup heavy cream

2 oz. Arabella from Jacobs & Brichford (Connersville), rind removed and cut into chunks

2 oz. Briana from Jacobs & Brichford, rind removed and cut into chunks

2 oz. Moonglo from Prairie Fruits Farm and Creamery (Champaign, Illinois), rind removed and cut into chunks

2 oz. Gouda from Sunset Acres (Rockville), rind removed and cut into chunks

2 oz. Brick Street Tomme from Traders Point Creamery (Zionsville), rind removed and cut into chunks

2 oz. Chedda Brew from Swissland Cheese (Berne), grated

½ cup panko breadcrumbs

¼ cup fresh flat-leaf parsley, chopped, for garnish

Salt and freshly ground pepper

Vegetable oil (enough to coat the macaroni)

Directions:

Preheat the oven to 430 degrees. Lightly butter four mini-cocottes. Partially cook the macaroni in salted boiling water for 3–4 minutes. Drain pasta and rinse with cold water to stop the cooking. Add several drops of vegetable oil to keep the noodles from sticking. Set macaroni aside.

In a medium saucepan over low-to-medium heat, melt three tablespoons of butter. Add the cream and all of the cheeses except the Chedda Brew. Stir until the cheeses have melted. Add salt and pepper to taste. Mix the pasta into the melted cheese and divide into the mini-cocottes. Combine panko, one tablespoon of melted butter, and Chedda Brew and sprinkle the mixture over each cocotte. Bake for 15 minutes until golden brown and bubbly. Let rest for 5 minutes, and then top with parsley. Recipe adapted from Le Creuset’s mini-cocotte recipe book.

Where to Buy:

Cookware: Le Creuset Mini-Cocottes $79.99 for a set of four, at Macys.com

Cheeses: Arabella, Briana, Moonglo, and Tomme cheeses available at Goose the Market (2503 N. Delaware St., 317-924-4944). Sunset Acres Gouda and Chedda Brew available at Pogue’s Run Grocer (2828 E. 10th St., 317-426-4963).

Photo by Tony Valainis

This article appeared in the January 2013 issue.