Novel Approach

Call me lowbrow, but this restaurant critic has never been that jazzed about brunch. Sure, I love a good omelet or a plate of French toast, but where I’m from those dishes come at a meal called breakfast, which we eat in the morning, and they aren’t served with a fruit cup, caviar, or a flute of champagne. So when I visited Tulip Noir, the chic new spot on West 86th Street, for its weekend brunch, I had my froufrou alarm set to full tilt. But when our waitress strolled out with samples of the tea of the day—a beguiling brew of “Sunday Morning” black tea, Bourbon vanilla, and chrysanthemums on my visit—and menus with such dishes as steak and eggs with bison meatloaf and a whole-wheat waffle with pears and pomegranate syrup, I couldn’t help but be impressed. When I took a sip of the tea, presented with a timer to tell me exactly when to decant my perfectly steeped brew, I figured I had better give this whole midmorning-meal thing a second chance. Maybe those throngs of happy brunch-lovers weren’t wrong after all.

Whatever you feel about what should constitute the first meal of the day and when it should be served, few restaurants are as exacting about details as Tulip Noir. From walls bathed in subtle colors like pale celery, to a meticulously tidy coffee bar with metal swivel stools, to wall sconce lamps that would be at home in a laboratory of yore, this is as much a retreat from the everyday as it is a place to get a great breakfast. Looking at the spare black chairs and white tables, is it any wonder the owner, Dina Romay-Sipe, is an interior designer who has worked at architectural firms? Romay-Sipe was inspired by French novelist Alexandre Dumas’ 1850 work La Tulipe Noire, in which a prize was offered to whomever could create the elusive black tulip. Indeed, she’s succeeded in making her first restaurant endeavor as rare as any flower, down to the museum-worthy glass teapots and the rectangular white plates that frame her artful presentations.

An avid home cook who was dismayed about not finding a healthy breakfast place in her northside neighborhood, Romay-Sipe decided to open that place herself. Her menu explains that baked goods are often made with whole grains or fortified with flaxseed, many dishes are friendly to those on a low-carb diet, and all of the eggs are enriched with Omega-3 fatty acids. Many dishes are celiac-, diabetes-, and vegan-friendly. But with such creative dishes on the offer, their healthfulness is a mere backdrop that assuages a bit of mealtime guilt. “Nothing is premixed here,” Romay-Sipe says, “not even the syrups and salad dressings. I try to serve proper portions without sending diners home hungry.”

Though the chic eatery serves breakfast and lunch dishes as well, brunch is definitely the best way to experience Tulip Noir. The deluxe eggs Benedict, which changes seasonally, is a far cry from the leaden version usually offered in buffet chafing dishes. On my visit, it featured a whole-grain English muffin, smoked turkey, red peppers, and fresh spinach topped with a light, lemony Hollandaise and a pillowy poached egg. Elevated from the greasy-spoon version is Tulip Noir’s version of “steak and eggs”: a hearty, slightly sweet, and nicely browned slab of bison-and-beef meatloaf topped with another of those poached eggs and accompanied by fresh baby greens. Pancakes, waffles, and French toast are all lighter versions than you’d expect, but they’re not light on flavor. Whether topped with pears and pecans or apples and walnuts, they’re dressed in ways that say you don’t need all that syrup and butter—though the housemade blueberry and pomegranate syrups offered are delicious departures from the typical.

While entrees are satisfying on their own, a list of unusual side dishes nicely rounds out your meal. Especially fresh and flavorful are crispy fritters of carrots, parsnips, and onions with a light and tangy horseradish creme fraiche. They come as a vegetarian main dish at brunch, but carnivores may want to share the rich plate around the table. Equally tasty are the rosemary roasted potatoes, a mix of red potatoes with Yukon golds and healthy sweet potatoes. And bacon, one of the few nods to traditional calorie-rich breakfasts, is a must—drizzled with honey and sprinkled with thyme. So flavorful, a single slice is enough.

A hit from almost the day it opened in late fall last year, the restaurant’s popularity is also its liability. Sunday brunch can get backed up; come early, or you might miss the last poached egg. The staff, always congenial, do all they can to make you feel at ease, even during the brunch rush. But they have to apologize at times for the wait. Fortunately, waiting diners are offered complimentary warm chocolate-orange scones to tide them over.

I may have gone in thinking brunch was all show, but I left understanding that a few details can elevate the morning meal to nothing short of sublime.

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Tulip Noir

1224 W. 86th St., 848-5252,
tulipnoircafe.com


Hours
Tues.–Fri. 7 a.m.–2:30 p.m.; Sat.–Sun. 8 a.m.–1 p.m.

Cuisine
Emphasizing the healthfulness of natural and organic ingredients, egg dishes are made with Omega-3–enriched eggs, and baked goods are fortified with whole grains and antioxidant-rich flaxseed. Seasonal coffee and tea menus restore the elegance of these beverages.

Prices
Lunch and brunch entrees, egg dishes, and sandwiches $5.25 to $11.75; side dishes $1.75 to $5; desserts $2 to $4.50; teas and coffees $2 to $6.

Atmosphere
This avant garde cafe glows in subtle greens and blues with earthy brown carpet tiles and funky sconce lamps with oversized bare bulbs. Ergonomic plastic chairs make unexpectedly comfy seating.

Pedigree
Chef-owner Dina Romay-Sipe completely gutted and renovated the former strip-mall home of My Favorite Muffin & Bagel Cafe. Chef’s Academy graduate Carlos Salazar helps Romay-Sipe with food preparation and cooking.

Service
The staff make you feel at home from the moment you step inside and never rush you, even when crowds are waiting.