Best French Onion Soup
Can we spoon? IM's dining editor seeks truth in the soup course.
Some people say you can read the quality of a restaurant in the way it cooks a steak ordered medium-rare. Others use the poached egg, or the quality of the table bread, the pluckiness of the staff, the cleanliness of the washrooms. I’ve decided that such merits lie beneath the melted Gruyere of French onion soup.