The Dish

Edited by Beth A. Clayton





14 West:
Select three dishes for $48, or four for $60. Includes starters; soup or salad; entrées such as Chilean sea bass with risotto, surf and turf combo, and 16 oz. rib eye with mashed potatoes; and choice of dessert. 14 W. Maryland St., 636-1414.


Adobo Grill:
Build a three-course meal from a menu of specials, such as mussels steamed in chipotle salsa, fire-roasted poblano pepper stuffed with veal and pork picadillo with walnut-cream sauce, and Mexican chocolate cake filled with chocolate mousse and topped with raspberry-corazon tequila sauce. $28.99 per person. Available Feb. 11 through Feb. 14, 110 E. Washington St., 822-9990.


Daddy Jack's:
For $80 a couple, choose two entrees (selections include filet Oscar, sea bass royal, lobster and crab fettuccine, and seafood ravioli), plus soup or salad, bread, and a pair of sides. Includes a glass of champagne, house wine, or draft beer for each diner, plus a dessert. 9419 N Meridian St., 843-1609.


Eagle's Nest:
Four-course menu includes an appetizer (lobster bisque and oysters on the half-shell caught our eye); choice of salad; entrees such as crab-crusted seasonal fish or chicken breast with truffle mac and cheese and pinot noir reduction; and chocolate-raspberry jaconde paired with vanilla crème brulee for dessert. $95 per diner. Includes tax, gratuity, and non-alcoholic beverages. 1 S. Capitol Ave., 616-6170.


Eddie Merlot's:
In addition to this steakhouse's regular menu, enjoy specials like surf 'n' turf for two for $99.95. Meal includes an eight-ounce filet and a five-ounce lobster tail for each diner, plus either steamed broccoli or creamed spinach, and Eddie's potatoes or roasted garlic mashed potatoes. 3645 E. 96th St., 846-8303.


Euphoria:
Chef Ivy Denman offers a petite greens salad with blood orange vinaigrette, goat cheese, and granola; choice of grilled prawn and risotto or pork belly with white grits and black olive honey; either seared cod with lemon spetzel or grilled short ribs with salsify; and the chef's selection of desserts for $55 per person. 337 W. 11th St., 955-2389.


Granite City Brewery:
Dinner for two for $49.99. Includes spinach and artichoke dip; choice of ale cheddar soup, baked French onion soup, or Caesar or garden salad; choice of honey rosemary filet, salmon oscar, three-cheese ravioli, or GC walleye dinner; plus caramel apple crumble dessert. 150 W. 96th St., 218-7185.


Iozzo's Garden of Italy:
Four-course dinner for two includes crab cakes or an antipasti platter; choice of Italian wedding soup or blood orange salad; choice of two entrees including surf & turf (black angus filet and lobster ravioli), fin & fowl (pan-seared grouper and Maple Leaf farm duck breast), and surf & chirp (shrimp scampi and ½ Cornish game hen); and tiramisu or chocolate-covered strawberries. $80 per couple; $100 per couple with wine pairings. Available Feb. 11 through Feb. 14. 946 S. Meridian St., 974-1100.


Oceanaire Seafood Room:
A ramped-up menu from chef Ryan Nelson includes appetizers of Thai-style fish cakes and seared foie gras, entrees including Grandma's "all-day" pork cheeks with Yorkshire pudding and house prosciutto-wrapped monk fish, and baked Alaska with peppermint ice cream. Available Feb. 12 through 14. 30 S. Meridian St., 955-2277.


Petite Chou:
In addition to the regular menu, look for a prix fixe menu featuring some old favorites (fresh catch of the day, frisee salad, chocolate pots de crème) and new features (rack of lamb, housemade chocolate ice cream sandwiches). Price TBD. Wine pairings, either by the taste or the glass, are also available.
 

Trader's Point Creamery:
Start the day with a romantic brunch, featuring "Mr. and Mrs." Croques—made with TPC cheeses, Gunthorp farm organic ham, and farm-fresh eggs—plus chocolate bread pudding, and pomegranate mimosas, in addition to the regular menu. 9101 Moore Rd., Zionsville, 733-1700.


Ruth's Chris Steakhouse:
Choose from Ruth's four-course menu—including choice of soups and salads; an entrée such as an eight-ounce filet, salmon, or stuffed chicken breast; a side dish; and dessert of chocolate mousse cup with berries and cream—for $89 per couple. 45 S. Illinois St., 633-1313; 9445 Threel Rd., 844-1155.


Sullivan's Steakhouse:
Two people eat for $79. The three-course menu includes all the usual steakhouse suspects, such as lobster bisque, a wedge salad, eight-ounce filet, triple-cut lamb chops, broiled salmon steak, cheesecake, and bread pudding. Wine specials include Chateau St. John Chardonnay for $30, Robert Mondavi Private Selection Cabernet for $34, or Piper Sonoma Brut for $45.  3316 E. 86th St., 580-1280.



Brad Gates Catering
Brad Gates Catering will deliver a four-course meal—lobster bisque, acorn squash ravioli, braised beef short ribs, and chocolate, vanilla, and caramel profiteroles—plus preparation instructions, to your home. $30 per person. 292-4259.


"All I really need is love, but a little chocolate now and again doesn't hurt."

Edited by Beth A. Clayton


Shula's (50 S. Capitol Ave., 231-3900), where the food satisfied, but the service left something to be desired. Despite three servers hovering nearby, we waited several minutes for water. Then we waited for drinks from the bar. Then for the cart presentation. When we asked about the special we had been told about when we made reservations (and that was mentioned in the Dish 1.12) which boasted three courses for $29.95 in honor of Coach Shula's 80th birthday, our server had never heard of the deal*. Disappointed, we ordered six entrees, and the table ordered three sides to share. The food quickly pacified the group. The crab mac 'n' cheese and lobster mashed potatoes were outstanding, the filet and steak Mary Anne—two medallions bathed in a creamy, cognac-peppercorn sauce—were fork-tender. Cowboy ribeye, KC strip, Mahi Mahi, spicy snapper—just right. But alas, by now we were out of water. And our drinks had run dry. A junior server replenished our water, but someone else would have to head to the bar. At the end of the meal, one of the servers brought a piece of cake for our birthday celebrant, along with several forks—most appreciated. But then there was more waiting. For the bill. For the bill to be collected. For the bill to be returned. We arrived around 7:30 and weren't released until nearly 10:00. Our valet, upon retrieving the car, asked us about our experience. The food was delicious, we said, but the service was terrible. He said he hears that a lot.

*It first came to us in an email press release from Shula's corporate.


While the New York Jets took on the Colts on Sunday, Matt Lysiak, a reporter for the New York Daily News, set out in the Circle City in search of authentic New York grub—and was hell-bent on not finding any. After pooh-poohing Giorgio's, King David Dogs, Cadillac Ranch, and Penn Station, he finally found some passable cuisine at Shapiro's. A special thanks to the Colts for saving Mr. Lysiak the trouble of searching for a chocolate egg cream in Miami next month.

At least one New Yorker found some true Indianapolis food—Darrelle Revis, New York Jets cornerback, dined at St. Elmo on Saturday. He and a few teammates were spotted leaving St. Elmo's lower level through an elevator at around 8:30 p.m.


Your favorite meats from Goose the Market (2503 N. Delaware St., 924-4944) may be showing up on plates in more restaurants and hotels soon. Chris and Mollie Eley plan to open the Smoking Goose, a wholesale charcuterie selling cured and smoked local meats, later this spring. While not a retail operation, the spot (tentatively planned for the King Park neighborhood) will be open for tastings and tours, and will also supply the Market. Eley says they hope to market their products to restaurants, hotels, and casinos in Louisville, Bloomington, Cincinnati, and Chicago.

In other Goose news, the near northside shop will add an enoteca in June, a downstairs dining room seating about 20 which will host beer and wine tastings, and will offer a few small plate options. Eley says this will also allow them to expand their beers and wines available for retail.


A bill allowing microbreweries to sell beers for takeout on Sundays was approved by the Senate and will go before the House on Thursday. The bill, sponsored by Ron Alting (R-Lafayette) and Vi Simpson (D-Bloomington), would limit Sunday sales to about three cases per transaction. Wineries are already permitted to sell on Sundays.


Winter may have closed the patio overlooking White River in Broad Ripple, but the inside of Chef J.J.'s Back Yard was hopping last Wednesday night for another Sun King Brewing dinner. Sixteen thirsty epicures—with the forethought to buy tickets before the event sold out two months ago—enjoyed a flight of six Sun King beers paired with four courses. The bitter "Amarillo the Warrior Princess" IPA mixed nicely with spicy shrimp glazed with a red currant chorizo relish. And the "Tipping Point" (candy sugar ale, 10 percent ABV), alongside a tiramisu on a bed of bacon-infused chocolate, lived up to its name. The next beer pairing dinner takes place in April; call 602-3701 for details.


In our haste to share all the culinary goodness coming out of the kitchen at Recess, we goofed on the address! The correct address is 4907 N. College Ave., not 407 N. College Ave. as was reported. Our sincere apologies to Greg Hardesty, Gabe Jordan, and the rest of the Recess team for our oversight. Fortunately, it doesn't seem to have slowed them down much, as rumor has it reservations were hard to come by this weekend.


"I have long believed that good food, good eating is all about risk. Whether we're talking about unpasteurized Stilton, raw oysters or working for organized crime 'associates,' food, for me, has always been an adventure."  

Wake up and smell the coffee, Indy. We sniffed out dozens of spots serving the best pancakes, bacon, waffles, French toast, and eggs the city has to offer, and we tell all in the February issue of Indianapolis Monthly. Check out our top picks, many of them making their first appearance in the pages of IM, when the magazine hits newsstands on January 28th.


January 25 through February 6: Devour Downtown. $30 prixe fixe menus from more than 40 restaurants. Reserve a table here.

February 2: A Classic Party Rental Open House (1333 E. 86th St., 251-7368). 5:30 to 8:30 p.m. Table displays by Annie-O's Events, wine by Vine & Table gourmet market, and food by Jacquie's Gourmet Catering. Free. Call 251-7368 to RSVP.

Through February 28: New Prix Fixe menu at The Capital Grille (40 W. Washington St., 423-8790). Four-course meal including tomato and fennel soup with mozzarella, prosciutto, and basil sandwiches; choice of braised wagyu short ribs, lobster-and-shrimp pot pie, or beef Wellington; and either homemade cookie and ice cream or carrot cake with ice cream and evergreen cinnamon honey. $49 per person.   

March 5: FoodCon, a showcase and exploration of the culture of art and food in Indianapolis, presented by the Harrison Center for the Arts and the Indiana Humanities Council's Food for Thought program. Art exhibitions, poetry, films, lectures, hands-on activities, and plenty to eat. 6-10 p.m. Harrison Center for the Arts (1505 N. Delaware St., 396-3886) Free.


Deano's Vino (1112 Shelby St., 423-3154) in Fountain Square is now doing business as Naptown Juice Bar & Restaurant. The focus remains on wine, though the menu is being revamped. Look for a grand reopening later this spring, to coincide with the conclusion of construction on the Square ... The Red Lion Grog House plans to open February 1st ... The original location of Café Patachou (49th and Penn., 925-2923) closed its doors last week and reopened just next door. The spacious, updated corner location will have outdoor seating in the summer.

Recess (407 N. College Ave., 925-7529), Greg Hardesty's new SoBro spot, and its opening goes a long way toward easing the pain of Elements' closing. In many ways, Recess is the antithesis of Hardesty's old spot: a small, bright dining room instead of the previous, dimly lit place; spare, cinderblock walls reminiscent of a high school gym, soft gray light fixtures, and old-school fiberglass chairs rather than the sleek Asian style of the old place. And most notably, Hardesty front and center, hard at work in the open kitchen, and greeting guests in the dining room instead of being behind the scenes. Hardesty has said that this is the restaurant he always wanted to open, and it shows: He shines in this space.

The menu is a single five-course, price fixe line-up ($45), with the option of wine pairings for each of the first four courses; both are refreshed every couple of days. Last night's experience started with a shrimp and avocado tostado with jicama slaw, cilantro, and a restrained sprinkle of cayenne pepper (with J Cuvee 20 sparkling wine). The heat was cooled by the soup course—potato soup topped with artful crumbles of homemade chorizo (with Shaya Verdejo Old Vines Rueda). Next up: crisp pork belly atop ponzu-marinated vegetables (paired with our personal favorite, the Odisea Veritable Quandary white), followed by just-warmed slices of tender, medium-rare rib eye with a swipe of horseradish potato puree (with a big, smooth Chateau LaScalle Bordeaux Superieur). Dessert was a little cup of pear and port sorbet finished with hazelnut crumble. (Now is a good time to stop reading, pick up the phone and make a reservation. We'll be here when you get back. All set? Excellent.)

Hardesty stopped by the table and lamented that there were still some wrinkles to smooth out, but if there were issues, we didn't see them. Servers were flawless in their knowledge of the dishes and accompanying wine, and moved as confidently throughout the small dining room as if they had worked in the space for years. Like third-graders being summoned back to class after playtime, we can't wait for another trip to Recess. 

-By Beth A. Clayton


Colts wide receiver Pierre Garcon is having a great year on and off the field, and he'll appear in the February issue of Indianapolis Monthly, on newsstands January 29th, as one of this year's Hot Singles. For more information on the Hot Singles party on February 11th, click here.

Sadly, Garcon has many friends and family members in Haiti, which was rocked by a massive earthquake earlier this week. Click here to support Garcon's relief efforts.

Edited by Beth A. Clayton


R Bistro (888 Massachusetts Avenue, 423-0312), which had just debuted its 2010 winter lunch menu. When chef/owner Regina Mehallick revises her menu, it's almost as if she's opened a new place. We were tempted by the cross-cultural panini with kielbasa, sauerkraut, and horseradish, but instead chose somewhat lighter options so as not to break our New Year's resolutions so quickly. A salad of fresh greens with roasted vegetables, including hearty hunks of nicely caramelized cauliflower made keeping the diet easy, and toasted walnuts and a subtle yet bright orange vinaigrette were refreshing touches after heavy holiday fare. Also surprisingly wholesome was a warm bowl of spaghetti with bacon, crunchy threads of red cabbage, more walnuts, and a nice perfume of rosemary in a creamy sauce the waiter described as "not too gloopy." It definitely was not. Thankfully, a few things on the lunch menu never change, and we patted ourselves on the back for our entrée choices and dug into a wedge of buttermilk pie with its signature golden brown and crisp crust.  


After the usual fits and starts that accompany any restaurant opening, Greg Hardesty's new project, Recess (4907 N. College Ave., 925-7529) is set to open today at 5:30. The menu for the first two days includes pork belly with ponzu pickled cucumbers, radishes, and wakame seaweed, pan roasted eye of ribeye and oven-roasted tomatoes, and port-and-pear sorbet. The full menu experience is priced at $45. 
 

Downtown drinkers may be able to toast the coming of spring at a new bar, Ball & Biscuit, set to open near the end of March in the 3 Mass building. The new spot's owner, Trevor Belden, says the low-key bar and lounge will feature low lighting and will be devoid of TVs and loud music—"this is a place to chill out and have a conversation." The Matty Bennett-designed space will boast exposed brick, a copper-finished bar, and "probably lots of candles," says Belden—along with cocktails, including some throw back classics compiled by co-owner and general manager Zach Wilks, who Belden says is an expert in pre-Prohibition cocktails.

Another eatery blowing into town this spring is the tentatively named Broad Ripple Ice Cream Shop. Owner David Gabovitch says he has a "handshake agreement" to set up shop in the former Whistle Stop Café, a converted train car just off the Monon Trail in Broad Ripple.


Spotted having a late dinner at the Capital Grille (40 W Washington Street, 423-8790) on Saturday night: visiting violinist Vadim Gluzman and guest conductor Andrew Litton, seated at a four-top near the bar with Simon Crookall, president and CEO of the ISO and Martin Sher, vice president of artistic planning. The quartet seemed to be having a lively time celebrating the violinist's triumphant debut here: His performance of the devilishly difficult Tchaikovsky Violin Concerto in D was smokin', by all accounts.


Lunchtime might be a little early for reading a menu by votive-light, but we could not resist the dark, seductive call of Bella Vita's new Circle Centre dining room. The Italian eatery—a staple of Geist—had just moved into the old Bertolini's spot, which had sat vacant since March 2008. The menu of big-plate pastas and rustic meat dishes (like veal with lemon and capers) fits this mall-side location. The servers were snap-to-it, even if ours did us the favor of forgetting to bring out the Italian bread that was supposed to come with the Pollo alla Romano. All the more room for a tender pounded chicken breast with a baked-on crust of herbs and cheese and served over al dente fettuccini alfredo. For dessert: three scoops of spumoni in a waffle cup with chocolate sauce and strawberries. There is nothing here that will make your eyes roll back with pleasure—the food is of the basic performance-kitchen variety that's hard to mess up. But it's a nice vacation from the indignities of the food court an escalator ride up.


Sushi? Been there, done that. Cupcake shops? We have gobs of them. Say what you may about the Indy-area food scene, but there isn't a single food trend from the first decade of the new millennium—announced by the Food Network this month—that hasn't made its way to our humble metropolis. Click here for the full list.


January 18: Woodford Reserve dinner at Harry & Izzy's (153 S. Illinois, 635-9594). Four-course meal, plus bourbon tasting with master distiller Chris Morris, and an etched bottle of Woodford Reserve. $75 per person.

January 26: Old Pogue Bourbon dinner at Kelties (110 S. Union St., Westfield, 867-3525). Four course dinner and a signed bottle of Old Pogue, plus discussions on bourbon distilling and tasting. 25 percent of proceeds benefit Hamilton County Meals on Wheels. $85 per person/$160 per couple.

February 20:  The Welcome Table, a music, dance, and theater production, starts in Bloomington's Buskirk-Chumley Theatre and moves outside, to finish around Dale Enoch's sculpture "‘The Bloomington Banquet". Tickets are $25 and include homemade pie and beverages.

Through March 31: Three-course dinner at Shula's Steak House to Celebrate Don Shula's 80th birthday. Includes house or Caesar salad, any entrée on the menu, and Key lime pie or cheesecake. $29.95. 50 S. Capitol Ave., 231-3900. 


Scotty's Brewhouse will open a 6th location in late February. The new spot, located in Geist and dubbed Scotty's Lakehouse will focus heavily on locally farmed produce and organic, hormone-free beef raised in Indiana. They are also in negotiations with the Patachou folk to serve a few select items from Café Patachou on Saturdays and Sundays...Bobby Joe's Beef and Brew (4425 Southport Crossings Dr.) closed...The Flying Cupcake will open up a location on Mass Ave., adjacent to Scholar's Inn Restaurant & Lounge this summer...Riviera Maya, a Mexican eatery, plans to open up in the vacated Old Towne Ale House (8657 E. 116th St.). The proprietors, who also own Real Hacienda in Anderson, say they hope to open the doors by the end of the month...Stefano's Ristorante (11680 Commercial Dr., Fishers), will close, and will be replaced by Friaco's, a Mexican chain owned by the same company that operates both locations of Pancho's Taqueria (7023 Michigan Rd., 202-9015; 9658 Allisonville Rd., 585-8427)...Vito's on Penn (20 N. Pennsylvania St.) closed...Cornerstone Coffee Company (1 N. Pennsylvania St., 632-4290) closed...Café O (111 Monument Circle) closed...Red Eye Cafe (250 S. Meridian St.) closed.

 

Edited by Beth A. Clayton


The Oceanaire Seafood Room (30 S. Meridian St., 955-2277), where the dining room buzzed with the pleasant din of the post-Colts–game crowd. We began our meal with the oysters Rockefeller—at least we think there was some oyster underneath the thick layer of creamy spinach and warm Parmesan cheese. The main course brought salmon Oscar, dressed with lump crab meat and bright green stalks of asparagus, and rich Diver scallops drenched in an even richer white wine-butter sauce. We weren't able to finish the whole portion for dinner, but, at our waiter's suggestion, the leftovers made a delicious lunch when lightly warmed and tossed with mixed greens the following day. For dessert, a towering beehive of baked Alaska, with a thick, crumbly chocolate base, a giant mound of pumpkin ice cream, and a sticky coat of meringue, all lightly singed using sweet cinnamon liqueur.


Progress continues to be made at Greg Hardesty's new place Recess (4907 N. College Ave.) The temporary, printed sign has been replaced with a permanent awning, and he recently teased on his blog that the restaurant's opening is imminent, beginning with Recess Take Away and easing into full service after the holidays.

Rumor has it that a limited selection of Hardesty's creations will be served at The White Rabbit Cabaret (1116 E. Prospect St.,). Owner Debra Silveus is a friend of the chef's.


Dish readers have the inside track to purchase premium tickets to this year’s Zoobilation, to be held June 11, 2010. Premium tickets to the black-tie event include a seat at a reserved table and two general admission tickets to the Zoo, good through the end of 2010. Premium tickets are $300 each, and a portion of every ticket sold benefits the Zoo, as well as its conservation efforts, both locally and globally. Last year, this event featured 11 live entertainers and nearly 70 food and beverage vendors. To take advantage of this special offer, contact Carol Howard at 317-630-2188.


A stylish—and cheeky—vessel for your sake.


A recent trip to Artisano's (1101-B E. 86th St., 251-4100) revealed that the pasta chef Tony Hanslits sells at his SoBro store, Nicole-Taylor's Pasta, is also available at the artisan olive oil, balsamic vinegar, and spice shop. Grab the single-serve "nests"—just $1.25 each—and while you are there, let owner David Burcham help you create a olive oil/balsamic vinegar pairing as a holiday or hostess gift; Japanese toasted sesame seed oil and black currant balsamic vinegar was a recent hit.

"There is a remarkable breakdown of taste and intelligence at Christmastime. Mature, responsible, grown men wear neckties made of holly leaves and drink alcoholic beverages with raw egg yolks and cottage cheese in them." —P.J. O'Rourke, writer


Even mega chains aren't immune to the recent uptick in gourmet pizza joints. As it celebrates 50 years in the biz, Domino's plans to revamp its pies.


Dozens of eaters, hundreds of man hours, thousands or dollars, and countless calories went into a total rewrite of Indianapolis Monthly's dining list. Some restaurants are in, some are out, but all got a second look, complete with fresh write-ups containing more detail than ever before.  Check it out, plus a buffalo wings showdown, and a neighborhood favorite celebrating 20 years in the business, in the January issue of Indianapolis Monthly, on newsstands now.


Keep this blog away from the kiddos if you ever hope to convince them not to play with their food.


Get the party (Christmas, New Year's, or otherwise) started with this Absolut Winter Mintini recipe, courtesy of Bravo! Cucino Italiana.

.1.5 oz. Absolut Vanilla
.5 oz. Monin Frosted Mint
.5 oz. Monin White Chocolate
.2 oz. half and half

Add all ingredients, plus ice, to martini shaker. Shake. Strain into martini glass rimmed with crushed peppermints. Makes one serving.


Yes, apparently you do need a recipe for ice.


December 26th: Breakfast with Santa at the Indiana State Museum (650 W. Washington St)., 8, 8:30, and 9 a.m. Food, visits from Santa and Mrs. Claus, and a ride on the Santa Claus Express. Reservations required. 232-1637.

January 6th, 2010: Girls' Night Out at Kiss Z Cook (890 E. 116th St.). 6:30 p.m. Chef Dwight Simmons, formerly of Kona Jack's, will teach students how to balance salty, sweet, and sour flavors in one meal. $40 per attendant. Call 815-0681 for reservation.

January 13th, 2010: Great Wines at Affordable Prices at Frazier's Gourmet Foods (8902 E. 96th St.) 6:30 p.m. Brad Sullivan with Carroll Company wine distributors will sample satisfying wines that won't break the bank. $20 per person. Call 849-5409 to register.


Crown Liquors (150 N. Delaware St., 638-3720) opened...Cadillac Ranch (39 Jackson Pl., 636-0100), mechanical bull, white leather couches, and all, opened...Bella Vita (11699 Fall Creek Rd., 598-9011) is planning a second location in Circle Centre Mall, in the former location of Bertolini's...Italia Mia (3150 E. SR 32, 331-0995), a simple Italian spot in Westfield, opened...Houlihan's downtown location closed. In its place will be Buffalo Wings & Rings, a Cincinnati-based chain serving, well, wings and onion rings, as well as burgers, sandwiches, and ribs...Fionn MacCool's (8211 116th St., Fishers, 863-2011) closed.



***The Dish will take a break on January 5th. Have a safe and happy holiday, and look for the next edition on January 12th***

Edited by Beth A. Clayton


Maker's Mark Bourbon House & Lounge, (4300 N. Michigan Road, Shelbyville, 421-8261), inside the Indiana Live! Casino, about 30 minutes from downtown. The decor strikes a "We're in Shelbyville?" note, with a chic palette of chocolate browns, large white-leather chairs, and sleek backlit surfaces. Even the butter dish—a pink slab of salt—is undeniably stylish. Sensing some hesitation, our confident server steered us away from the 60-strong bourbon menu and to a $5 glass of Robert Mondavi Private Selection Pinot Grigio. We also took his suggestion for an appetizer of lightly battered calamari drizzled with cool wasabi aioli and served with sweet-chile dipping sauce. The New York strip was cooked to charred, juicy perfection—befitting a restaurant that keeps a butcher on staff—and the flaky halibut smothered in scotch vanilla sauce and served with pistachio couscous with caramel sauce proved that the restaurant can handle less straightforward fare, too. The house pastry chef wheeled her cart over before the entrees were served, so we knew to save room for the moon pie made with a bourbon marshmallow. "Good luck out there," our server said as we headed into the crowded casino, but there's no doubt that we'd already scored the best bet in the house.

 

State spirit, anyway. We finally got our heads wrapped around the idea of having a signature pie (it's sugar cream; haven't you been paying attention?), and now it's time to embrace a signature...wine.

Using a nearly $20,000 grant from the Department of Agriculture, the Indiana Wine Grape Council has selected Traminette, a dry, floral white wine, as our state juice. "Oregon is known for Pinot, New York for Riesling. We want Indiana to be known for Traminette," said Jeannette Merritt, wine marketing specialist at Purdue University and marketing director with the Indiana Wine Grape Council.

Derived from the Gewurztraminer grape, Traminette was specially bred to thrive in Midwestern soil—21 Hoosier wineries already produce the varietal. The Traminette is the third most-grown wine grape in Indiana (behind Concord and Chambourcin), but Merritt says this may change as the wine grows in popularity. "We hope that newer wineries will feel comfortable producing this wine if people are more familiar with it."

Merritt recommends the Traminette to lovers of Riesling, Gewurztraminer, and Sauvignon Blanc, and says it pairs well with pork, poultry, seafood, and Asian dishes.

 

Here, what Hell's Kitchen or Iron Chef might look like without the editing, scripting, music, or television host.


The World Famous St. Elmo Shrimp Cocktail (now a trademarked name) is available to go. A small platter of the iconic steakhouse's spicy stuff serves 15 people and costs $122; the largest platter, serving 75 people, will set you back $450.


The folks at Workingman's Friend (234 N. Belmont Ave., 636-2067) have produced a pin-up. The same hangout that produces the signature double, which landed on our list of the best burgers in town earlier this year, appears in Aunt Millie's Bread 2010 calendar, which features Aunt Millie's customers throughout the Midwest. The free calendars are available at The Friend.

 "There is no love sincerer than the love of food." —George Bernard Shaw


Café Patachou owner Martha Hoover got another win yesterday when the Alcohol & Tobacco Commission approved her request for a beer and wine permit for her new Neapolitan pizza joint dubbed Napolese, adjacent to her 49th and Penn Patachou location. Last month's hearing before the Board of Zoning Appeals regarding outdoor seating permits resulted in a victory for Hoover and Co. as well. Neighborhood remonstrators had voiced concerns over parking issues and outdoor seating. Patachou rep Christina Pippen says the renovations to the original Patachou should be complete by the end of January; Napolese will likely open its doors in February.


The Chef's Academy has released its first cookbook, Cooking with The Chef's Academy: Perform Like A Chef With Recipes & Lessons From The Classroom to Your Kitchen. The book features recipes from Tony Hanslits, Lucas Trinosky, Pierre Giacometti, plus several other Chef's Academy professors and collaborators. Pick one up at Border's, Barnes & Noble, or on Amazon.com.


Through December 24th, from 11 a.m. to 3 p.m. Ruth's Chris northside location (9445 Threel Rd., 844-1155) offers a  gift card "drive-thru." The 100th customer will receive two tickets to the Indianapolis Symphony Orchestra. Stock on up gift cards worth $500 or more at The Capital Grille (40 W. Washington St., 423-8790), and receive 10 percent bonus in gift cards and a Michelangelo Waiters' Rosewood Corkscrew.


A passing grade on this name-that-candy-bar quiz indicates that your memory is intact—and it's time to cut back on the sweets.



December 7th, 8th & 9th: Champagne with Michel Pascal at the Corner Wine Bar (6331 Guilford Ave., 225-5159), 7–9 p.m. Heavy appetizers paired with courses of bubbly. $50 per person. Call for reservations.

December 12th & 19th: Christmas on the Farm at Trader's Point Creamery (9101 Moore Rd., 733-1700) 9 a.m.–2 p.m. Breakfast, hot chocolate, a Christmas Farmer's Market, live music, and sleigh hayrides.
 
December 15th: Celebrity Wine Dinner at Zing (543 Indiana Ave.. 636-7775) 7 p.m. 7-course dinner featuring wine pairings from the vineyards of celebrities such as Larry Bird, Marion Andretti, and Mike Ditka. $50 per person.

December 15th: Single Malt Scotch tour at Kahn's Fine Wines (5341 N. Keystone Ave., 251-9463). 6:30–8:30 p.m. Snacks and more than 30 Scotches. $15 in advance, $20 at the door.

December 19th: Breakfast with Santa at Kelties (110 S. Union St., Westfield, 867-3525) 8–11 a.m. $10 for children 11 and under, $15 for adults. Call for reservations.


Stanley's New York Deli (8555 N. Ditch Rd., 254-3354) closed...Cadillac Ranch (39 Jackson Pl., 636-0100), a new Western-themed restaurant and bar in Union Station, plans to open December 11...Carla Monroe, sales and marketing manager for Indy's Morton's Steakhouse (41 E. Washington St., 229-4700) has passed the first level of the Introductory Sommelier Exam...Celebrity chefs Anthony Bourdain and Eric Ripert, of the Travel Channel and PBS, respectively, will speak at Clowes Hall next September as part of the 2010 Spirit & Place Festival, themed "Food For Thought."

Edited by Beth A. Clayton

On Friday We Ate At...

Broad Ripple Steakhouse (929 E. Westfield Blvd., 253-8101), which we were surprised to find nearly empty despite the hustle and bustle on the streets of Broad Ripple. We skipped the appetizers, which was for the best, as it left more room for the warm, fresh bread and whipped butter-simple and satisfying. The iceberg wedge was another humble treat, with a thick blanket of melted, lightly browned blue cheese on top of the crisp leaves. The blue-cheese topped filet was fine, but the chef's special of pork tenderloin with a bright ancho-chile sauce accompanied with a chicken tamale was by far the best and most inspired entree choice. A side dish of sauteed mushrooms didn't have much of the promised bourbon flavor, and mashed potatoes with cheddar, bacon, and parsley were smooth and creamy but without enough bacon. However, creme brulee topped with a thick sugar cap made up for any meal missteps.

Hear Ye, Hear Ye

Patachou lovers will want to cancel today's lunch plans and head to the City County Building for a board of zoning appeals hearing regarding an alcohol permit for Martha Hoover's new pizza restaurant, Napolese. Remonstrators have been circulating fliers expressing concern that the new eatery adjacent to the 49th and Penn flagship Patachou, which will also feature outdoor seating, will result in parking issues and noise concerns; supporters of the new spot responded by gathering 492 online signatures. The hearing will be held at 1 p.m. in the public assembly room.

In happier House of 'Chou news, the local chain's River Crossing location (8697 River Crossing Blvd.) has moved into the empty spot next door (recently vacated by the Pink Lime), and now features a decor more in keeping with the interiors of other Patachou locations. Check out some pics here.

Support System

It has been more than two weeks since the restaurant community in Indy was rocked by the news that Gabe Jordan, a fixture at Goose The Market, Elements, H2O Sushi, and the general manager of Greg Hardesty's latest project, Recess, was shot in the back while walking his dog the night of November 8th. Those wishing to donate to his recovery or keep updated on his progress can do so here.

Coming Up Short

Two eminent food shortages are threatening to keep a couple of favorites-and one holiday tradition-off grocery store shelves. Nestle, which sells about 90 percent of all canned pumpkin in the U.S., announced that two poor harvest seasons mean the company might not be able to keep up with normal demand. In related news, you might literally have to "leggo your Eggo." Kellogg is anticipating a waffle shortage following flooding and equipment problems at two of their bakeries.
 

Seeing Green

According to an 18-month study commissioned by Dole Fresh Vegetables, Indianapolis is one of 21 Top Salad Cities. What does that mean? Well, we aren't sure. Dole isn't exactly forthcoming with their method of obtaining data, or what exactly that data is, but according to a press release, our market will "receive special attention by Dole Fresh Vegetables and a personal visit by the DOLE Salad Guide."

Sweet Set of Wheels

If you are really stumped for gift ideas...

 

"When we eat together, when we set out to do so deliberately, life is better, no matter what your circumstances."

 

Warm Hands, Warm Heart

Hot cocoa made with chocolate from local chocolatier Ghyslain? Sounds delcious. And proceeds benefit Riley Children's Hospital? We'll have two. Get your own Red Wagon Hot Chocolate at Scotty's Brewhouse (1 Virginia Ave., 571-0808; 3905 E. 96th St., 574-0101).

Appetizer

At long last, the final chapter to a restaurant story 70 years in the making. The high point on the menu at Iozzo's Garden of Italy (946 S. Meridian St,. 974-1100)? Pick up the December issue of Indianapolis Monthly, on newsstands this week, to find out. Plus, artisanal olive oils in Nora, a touch of Vietnamese flavor in Avon, and an old favorite under new management continues to please palates.

Succotash

Pizzology (13190 Hazeldell Pkwy.), Neal Brown's new Neapolitan pizza place opened...Hot Box Pizza plans to open a new location in the Harness Factory Lofts building on Georgia Street downtown...SweeTies (1081 Broad Ripple Ave., 602-3999), a dessert cafe featuring cookies, cupcakes, cakes, pies, ice cream, and various and sundry sweet treats opened...On Time Seafood (3623 Commercial Dr., 293-8888) opened...The Cupcake Camper, housed in a converted airstream trailer, served its first treat in the Hamilton Towne Center in Noblesville...Lulu's Restaurant and Cocktails (8487 Union Chapel Rd.) has converted a corner of its dining room/nightclub into a sushi bar, rolling out-no surprise here-trendy concoctions like the 911 Roll, served on fire.  

Guiding Bite

November 24-25: Your Neighbor's Garden Thanksgiving Market. 9 a.m-6 p.m. Gather fresh produce, including root vegetables, greens, potatoes, and 11 varieties of apples, during YNG's special extended hours. (5224 Grandview Dr.)

December 1: Holiday Extravaganza by A Classic Party Rental (1333 E. 86th St., 251-7368). 5 p.m. Holiday floral arrangements, table displays, and menu ideas. Admission is free.

December 3: Mistletoe Mixology party at the Conrad (50 W. Washington St.). 6 p.m. Hors d'oeuvres and mixology tips and tricks from Conrad sommelier Jeff Rossier. $39 per person. Must be 21. Call 524-2574 for reservations.

December 3: Best Bite of King Park, organized by the King Park Area Development Corporation. 5:30 p.m. Five chefs will be given $125 to buy ingredients for their creation; each must pair with beer or wine from Goose the Market or tea from Teas' Me. $25 per person. Contact Janine Betsey for tickets at jbetsey@kpadc.org or 924-5055.

December 4: Wolf Park Wine Tasting at Main Street Cheese & Wine Cellar (1005 Main St., Lafayette). Food and wine pairings and a silent auction. Benefits Wolf Park. $25 per person. Call (765) 567-2265 for reservations.

December 6: Noblesville Holiday Formal at Matteo's (40 N. 9th St., Noblesville, 774-9771). 5 p.m. Three course dinner of Matteo's favorites, champagne, and live music by Tom Wright of The Wright Brothers. Benefits Noblesville Main Street. $50 per person. Call 774-9771 for reservations.

December 8: Hyatt's Christmas in the Kitchen at the Hyatt Regency. 6:30 p.m. Guests are invited into the Hyatt's main kitchen to watch the culinary team prepare dinner. Includes wine and spirits. Proceeds benefit Indiana's Make-A-Wish fund. $85 per person. Call 913-9474 to purchase tickets.

December 10: Terre Madre Day Celebration to mark the 20th anniversary of Slow Food International. 5 p.m. Local Indiana cheese, charcuterie, cultured vegetable, and beverage tasting. $10 per person, or $25 for family of three or more. Earth House Collective (237 N. East St., 636-4060).

Edited by Beth A. Clayton


Sullivan's (3316 E. 86th St., 580-1280), where a lovely brunch fueled us for an afternoon of cheering on the Colts. It's almost impossible to leave the table hungry here: Each brunch entrée at the northside steakhouse comes with an appetizer—we chose warm asparagus bisque and a mixed-green salad heavily dressed with basil dressing—plus a gratis platter of fresh fruit and sticky buns. The chocolate-cherry French toast was as sweet as you would imagine, but, predictably, the meat dishes shine. We liked the beef tenderloin eggs Benedict—two quivering orbs of poached egg, blanketed in Hollandaise sauce, atop cut-with-your-fork–tender discs of beef. We were too stuffed to take full advantage of the limitless desserts, but a second Bellini? Yes, please.


Those who said Fountain Square wasn't living up to its promised potential may soon have to eat their words—or least give them a nibble. A couple new restaurants, a watering hole or two, and a coffee shop are currently in the works just off the Square.
•The first to come along is Calvin Fletcher's Coffee Company (615 Virginia Ave., 423-9697), which opened October 17 on Virginia Avenue in the Fletcher Place neighborhood. The not-for-profit café serves fair-trade coffee and organic teas, plus sweets from City Sweets and Classic Cakes. Each month, tips are donated to a different charity; this month's recipient is Second Helpings.
•Imbibe (1105 Shelby St.), opened Friday in the Fountain Square Theatre Building between owners Linton and Fern Calvert's other two restaurants, Smokehouse on Shelbi and the Shelbi Street Bistro. The Art Deco-themed bar offers small-plate appetizers, craft beers, specialty cocktails, and wines.
•Across the square in the Murphy Art Center, restaurateur Wally Bolinger plans to open The Red Lion, an English pub, the week of Thanksgiving. Bolinger also owns Britton Tavern in Noblesville, and says this one will offer traditional English favorites, like bangers and mash, shepherd's pie, and fish and chips, plus burgers and a couple of vegetarian options. Bolinger will also serve about a dozen craft beers (including some Sun King favorites), 20 bottled beers, and a short wine list.
•In the coming months, we can look forward the White Rabbit Cabaret (1116 E. Prospect St.), from sisters Debra and Rebecca Silveus, which will feature vaudeville-inspired dance shows and some movie and game nights, plus small-plate offerings and beer and wine. And finally, next door at 1130 East Prospect, Radio Radio owners David "Tufty" Clough and Roni Donaldson plan to open a full-service restaurant known tentatively as La Revolucion sometime next year.


St. Elmo Steak House's King Crab Dinner runs Nov. 17–20, but due to the event's immense popularity last year, Wednesday, Thursday, and Fridays nights are sold out, making Tuesday, Nov. 17, your last chance to get all-you-can-eat Alaskan King Crab legs, flown in from Dutch Harbor, for $125. Click here to see just how big these bad boys are. Call Jennifer Karaszia at 635-0636, ext. 104 for reservations.


Bloomington's Upland Brewery may unlock the doors to its new growler store as soon as this week, says sales manager Danny Henrich. The storefront will offer flights of beer and a few snacks, but the main business will be growler sales. "The idea is just to get Upland beer into Indianapolis," says Henrich, who added that they do not intend to compete with area bars or the package liquor stores that sell Upland's six-packs. "It's more of a marketing tool than a sales directive," he says.


Take your turkey to Claus German Sausage and Meats (1845 S. Shelby St., 632-1963) by November 18, and they'll smoke it for you in time for Thanksgiving. While you're at it, pick up something for your pooch, too: Claus will sell you beef and pork bones for Fido.


But don't go hungry. Here, are three great ways to fuel up on game day.

King David Dogs (15 N. Pennsylvania St., 632-3647), home of ¼-pound all-beef hotdogs, is usually closed evenings and weekends, but opens up on Colts game days.
Iozzo's Garden of Italy (946 S. Meridian St., 974-1100) serves up an all-you-can-eat buffet on game days from 10:30 a.m.–1:30 p.m., plus a Bloody Mary bar. $14.95 per person.
Ruth's Chris (45 S. Illinois St., 633-1313) now offers brunch on Colts home-game days (when kick-off is at 1 p.m.) beginning at 10 a.m. Reservations are recommended. $19.95 per person.


Recognize any of these from your kids' Halloween basket?


Chateau Thomas Winery (6291 Cambridge Way, Plainfield, 839-5263) plans to open a wine bar, tasting room, and gift shop in Fishers Towne Commons the first weekend of December...Stardust Café, (450 W. Ohio St., 232-1878) in the Indiana History Center, reopened last week with a new, Victorian-streetscape look. Hoaglin-To-Go remains the caterer at the facility...Barley Island Brewery opened its new location in Broad Ripple at 701 Broad Ripple Ave...Capital Grille (40 W. Washington St., 423-8790) will extend its three course prix-fixe menu through November 29...Restaurant at the Canterbury (123 S. Illinois St., 634-3000) dropped lunch service...Hong Kong House (6579 E. State Road 334, Zionsville, 769-6666), serving sushi, steak, and seafood, opened...Tomo Japanese Steakhouse and Sushi (7411 N. Keystone Ave., 254-8666) opened...Harvest Fresh Market and Delicatessen (12770 Horseferry, Carmel), located in the Village of West Clay, opened.


November 10: Buffalo Trace Dinner at Zing (543 Indiana Ave., 636-7775). 7 p.m. Five-course small-plate dinner paired with bourbon. $30 per person.

November 13: "A Taste of Tuscany" to benefit Ronald McDonald House. Wine and Italian fare prepared by Chef Tony Hanslits of the Chef's Academy and Chef Michelle Matiya of the Conrad. $85 per person. Call 267-0605, ext. 205 for more details.

November 14: Cutting board-making class at the Indianapolis Art Center (820 E. 67th St., 255-2464). $67 for non-members. Click here to register.

November 15: Potluck Dinner and discussion, 5:30–7:30 p.m. "Local Food Trends: Growing Community, Economy, and Mutual Delight" (part of the Spirit & Place Festival). Neal Brown will prepare a main course following a panel discussion including Brown, Chris Eley of Goose The Market, Laura Henderson, founder of the Winter Farmers' Market, and others. Click here for more information and to RSVP.

November 21: "Taste of Home Cooking Made Easy: Festive in a Flash, sponsored by Clark Appliance" at the Indiana State Fairgrounds. Cooking demonstrations. Doors open at 1 p.m. $10. Tickets available at Clark Appliance or by clicking here.

 

"If junk food is the devil, then a sweet orange is as scripture." —Audrey Foris, poet

Edited by Beth A. Clayton

Ambrosia Centro (15 E. Maryland St., 225-3096), the second location of the Broad Ripple-based Italian favorite which opened last week. Though the menu is essentially the same as at the original, the interior here is far more elegant and subdued, with rich, burnt orange walls bathed in candlelight and a double-sided roaring fireplace separating the main dining room from a smaller one. An appetizer special—prosciutto-wrapped shrimp—had a lovely char-grilled flavor, and the caprino, a platter of goat cheese topped with a rosemary cream sauce and served with herbed crostini was so delicious we were sneaking bites of the remaining cheese long after the crostini were gone. Our waitress skillfully helped us select a bottle of wine (we went with the 2006 Laetitia Pinot Noir) to go with entrees of veal piccata in white wine lemon sauce, and a particularly memorable beef tenderloin, smothered in black peppercorn brandy cream sauce. For dessert grab a perfect cube of cool and creamy tiramisu.


Chef Neal Brown will head to Chicago on Wednesday to audition for the next season of Bravo's Top Chef. Brown said he auditioned last season and didn't make the cut, but producers called him last week to invite him to give it another shot. Brown's Pizzology is on schedule to open mid-November, "barring any crazy reality TV participation," says Brown.


It's been several months since the (dare we say it?) gaudy bird mural was painted on the side of Good Morning Mama's Café (1001 E. 54th St., 255-3800), and now that the doors have opened, we can report that the kitschy painting has some context. Everything in the place, from the tables to the coffee mugs, plays into the Technicolor, 1950s-style–diner theme. The menu even includes some throwback classics like fried Spam and the Pizzaburger. We chose to merely dip a toe in quirky-menu waters, and tried the Stuffed Burrito Sonoma, with fluffy scrambled eggs mixed with chorizo sausage, bacon, jalapeno peppers, onions, tomatoes, and Monterey Jack cheese, all wrapped in a flour tortilla and served with spicy salsas. Also tempting are the Hoosier Fried Biscuits rolled in sugar and cinnamon, and the Kahlua-battered French toast. We'll go back, but we don't think we'll ever be adventurous enough to try the Elvis' Favorite sandwich, made with peanut butter, bacon, and a banana (if you like) or the 1940s omelet, with fried Spam, onions, Cheez Whiz, and marinara sauce.


Carlos Salazar, executive chef of Tulip Noir (1224 W. 86th St., 848-5252), won the local Chaîne des Rôtisseurs Jeunes Commis Rôtisseur Competition, held this weekend. The contest is a fundraiser to raise money to send young local chefs to national competitions.


This Wednesday marks the last City Market Farmers' Market of the season (9:30 –1:30 p.m. on Market St., between Delaware and Alabama) but the first Winter Farmer's Market of the season will be held at The Chatham Center (901 N. East St.) on Saturdays from November 14 to April 24 from 9 a.m.–12:30 p.m. Click here to keep track of new vendors.


The famed Le Cirque restaurant in New York City is celebrating its 35th anniversary. Check out Le Cirque: A Table in Heaven, a documentary chronicling owner Sirio Maccioni's effort to shutter one location and open another, when it airs on HBO this month. Click here for more info.


Stop by John's Fine Wine & Spirits (25 N. Pennsylvania St., 637-5759) on Fridays for a discount on vino almost too good to pass up: buy three bottles of wine and get the fourth bottle for just a penny. Same goes for six-packs of beer. And in case you are looking for the catch, John's prices are comparable to other area liquor stores, according to our unscientific research; the Santa Margarita Pinot Grigio, for instance, is a pretty standard $24.99.


What to get for the foodie who has everything? How about this vintage menu, from the Cape Cod Room of the Circle Tavern Restaurant, formerly located at 37 Monument Circle (incidentally, adjacent to the IM offices). The 1950s-era menu—which offers Lobster Thermidor for just $2.50—is listed for $125. The menu has been languishing on eBay for several months; will you be the one to snap it up?


Jenxie's Café, located in the Earth House Collective (237 N. East St., 636-4060) near Mass Ave., is quickly becoming a bastion for downtown vegetarians looking for wholesome lunchtime grub. (Become a fan on Facebook and find out what's on the brief menu each day.) Next up for the humble café is Be Bliss Juice, an organic juice bar run by Audrey Barron, who completed her Raw Food Certification earlier this month, and plans to have the juice bar up and running by next week. Check out the Green Goddess, made with lemon, apple, ginger, and greens juice, or the After Glow—apple, pear, lemon, and ginger juices.


In the September 29th edition of The Dish, credit for the Indy Market Chef's Challenge was inadvertently given to The Chef's Academy, instead of Ivy Tech's Culinary Arts program. We extend our sincere apologies to chef Thom England, hospitality instructor at Ivy Tech and organizer of the Indy Chef's Challenge, and to Ivy Tech and its students as well.



Oct. 29: The ART of Mexican Cuisine at the Indianapolis Art Center. 6 p.m. Cocktails, hors d'oeuvres, and a cooking demonstration in celebration of Day of the Dead. $50 per person, or $75 per couple. Tickets at DayoftheDeadIndy.org or 255-2464 ext 247.

Oct. 29: Wine Sampling at French Pharmacie (823 1/2 E. Westfield Blvd., 251-9182). 5­–7 p.m. Wines of Bordeaux with Simon Ford, founder of Vivance. Call 251-9182 to RSVP.

Nov. 3: Wine Tasting Dinner with Michel Pascal & Carroll Co. 6:30–9 p.m. Hosted at Binkley's Kitchen and Bar (5902 N. College Ave., 722-8888), Michel Pascal, the owner of the Carroll Co., will present wines from Oregon paired with a cheese sampling reception and each of six courses. $50 per person.

Nov. 4: Martinis on Maryland. 5:30­–7:30. Munch on light hors d'oeuvres and learn how to make three specialty martinis from the bartenders at 14 West (14 W. Maryland St., 636-1414) $14 per person.

Nov. 5: Wine dinner at Traders Point Creamery (9101 Moore Rd., Zionsville, 733-1700). Five-course dinner accompanied by organic Spanish wines. $60 per person.

Nov. 6: Classic Single Malt Scotch Tasting. 4–6 p.m. Vintage Spirits (20821 Hague Road, Noblesville, 773-5348) will host a free tasting with Mary LaRosa featuring 5 scotches ranging in age from 10 to 16 years. Call for more information.

Nov. 12: Food Inc. film screening sponsored by Slow Food Indy. 7 p.m. At Earth House Collective (237 N. East St.). $5.


Craving variety? A local sandwich shop offers so many choices, it would take you more than 142,000 years to try them all if you sampled one every day. Find out where to start your sandwich journey, plus the steakhouse that's courting the ladies, in the November issue of Indianapolis Monthly, on newsstands October 29th.


Yats, announced plans to open another Indianapolis-area location, tentatively with a more upscale theme, in the Ambassador apartment building next to the Central Library...Dyno Jack's (3742 E. 82nd St.) closed...Gusto! Pizza closed their Fountain Square location in the Murphy Arts Building. A new location in Franklin Township (7153 Southeastern Ave., 356-5113) is now open... OoBatz (1576 W. Oak St., Zionsville), a new pizza, pasta, and salad spot opened in Zionsville.

Tastings (50 W. Washington St., 423-2400), the wine bar located at the southwest corner of the Conrad hotel downtown, opened without fanfare on Tuesday evening. By Thursday night at 8, the place was filled to the rim—and not just because Indy winers and diners are looking for something new. The former Vitesse space has been spiffed up a little, and the location is great, but the crowds are already in place mainly because Tastings is the most exciting thing to happen to downtown dining in quite a while. It's a little like Vegas, but with wine.

The metaphor sticks: there are almost too many choices of both food and drink, and you are going to spend a lot of money without really realizing it. But it's also kind of a blast. You tell the servers a dollar amount you want added to a card, then wander among wine kiosks scattered throughout the space, each holding a dozen or so wines under rubrics like "Intriguing Whites," or, more conventionally, "Italy."  Above each bottle are brief tasting notes, and a digital display of the price for a two-ounce pour. (An unscientific survey yielded a concensus that this volume is slightly less than a typical pour in a Napa tasting room.) Each punch of a button doles out two ounces; punch away until your card runs dry.  All of the wines are available by the bottle as well, for a fairly reasonable retail price; if you fall in love early in your visit, order a bottle and have a seat. Or keep strolling and punching and sipping—it's up to you.

All of this would not be nearly as enjoyable if the shareable food were not so decent, right out of the gate. Stick to the most obviously wine-friendly stuff: Prosciutto wrapped figs with blue cheese and walnuts were on the small side, but delicious, especially with a Trimbach Gewurtztraminer. Shrimp ceviche, served martini-style, was a little light on the shrimp but flavorful, and a large bowl of roasted olives was a tasty steal at $6.  A three-ramekin sampler of Mediterranean dips—bean mush, hummus, and bruschetta-style tomatoes—is also very reasonable at $8, but more filling than delicious. Two squirts of the Napa chardonnay from Rombauer ($5.60) and you might as well be in the Valley.

If you move to reds, (and you should), head to the flatbread pizzas, little squares sliced for sharing. The Italian Sausage pizza with tomatoes and carmelized honey/balsamic onions was a hit, as was the Napa Valley, a lovely gathering of baby spinach, artichokes, feta, pine nuts, and provolone and mozzarella with a basil pesto sauce. Servers know their way around the menu pretty well, and seem to be learning the wines. All are friendly and alert, though the early crowds had them looking a tad shell-shocked at times.

As with much wine exploration, ranging out of the familiar regions can yield the most bang for the buck.  Over by the retail area, along the Washington Street side, a $7.35 pour of The Chocolate Block, a Syrah/Grenache/Cabernet (and Cinsault and Viognier) blend from South Africa was a ripe wonder—a "double-clicker," as one friend put it—but the $4.95 North by Northwest, a Cab/Merlot blend from Washington State, had us making multiple button pushes, multiple times.

Which, like playing the slots, can add up.  In a glassed alcove, visible from the hotel lobby, a round kiosk of high-end choices beckons. There's a big Barolo or two, a grand cru Bordeaux that's too young too drink, Francis Ford Coppola's latest monster. Oh, and the 2005 Shafer Hillside Select, a Napa Cabernet that's on offer for 50 bucks. For two ounces. If you are seriously  considering that, you should probably back away from the table and cash in your chips. You might have a problem.


—By David Zivan