Ambrosia

Gino Pizzi’s new location for his parents’ long-beloved Broad Ripple trattoria gives this Italian standard a fresh face and new visibility, as well as more off-street parking. But photos from Pizzi-family vacations and a largely unchanged menu pay homage to what has drawn regulars back for three decades. Antipasti are a must, especially a sumptuous goat-cheese torta or subtly sweet grilled shrimp wrapped in earthy prosciutto, and salads of arugula or roasted beets are bright and flavorful. Some entrees disappoint, such as veal marsala (a true trattoria test) served less than crispy and drenched in a watery sauce. But other classics hit the spot, including a homey, meaty lasagna and tortellini with a thick cream sauce and pancetta. Light, textbook cannoli and some of the creamiest tiramisu in town round out an elegant Italian dinner with the flair of the Pizzi family.

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