With all of its mad-scientist foams and sauce-swiped dishware, this airy establishment in the CityWay complex pushes the molecular-gastronomy envelope. The menu is in constant flux, with a diverse lineup of small plates and a brief list of elaborate dinner entrees that range from a tiny quail lounging next to a bubble of wood-stock jus to a tender hunk of beef short rib on fried spaetzle to light, flaky sauteed sunfish paired with house-cured bacon. The ticket can add up, but handcrafted cocktails soften the blow. French-press coffee (roasted at Cerulean’s Winona Lake flagship) hits every dark, robust note and pairs surprisingly well with the items on the lunch menu—a series of $11-to-$15 mains served bento box–style with three side dishes.

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