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In the land of chic small plates and pricey craft cocktails, there’s an old haunt that hasn’t touched a trend—and is cherished for doing just that. At Hollyhock Hill, they ignore the scoffers and stick with what’s worked for 84 years: comfort in the form of pan-fried chicken. In this turn-of-the-century country cottage, quaintness exudes from every corner, from the tree-lined entryway to the flowery murals in the pastel dining room partitioned off by decorative wrought iron throughout. Among the frilly linen-draped tables and lazy Susans, servers in blue smocks dole out grandma-style platters of the lightly floured, skillet-fried goodness paired with mashed potatoes, buttered corn, green beans, and buttermilk biscuits with apple butter. The default ice-cream flavor is vanilla, but opt for the peppermint.