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The Hawaiian-themed Kona Jack’s does not shy away from kitsch. Nautical ropes and fish tanks announce that no white tablecloth awaits you. And yet, from the first course—which ought to be the lightly breaded hunks of calamari served with Cajun mayo—it’s smooth sailing. Since Kona opened in 1992, the crunchy grouper (prepared in lemon-pepper Parmesan breadcrumbs) and pan-fried walleye (served in a lemon-wine sauce) have been little-changing favorites. And the abundant sushi bar offers a huge selection of rolls and sashimi; don’t miss the sesame seared ahi—slices of yellowfin tuna heaven topped with a teriyaki plum-wine sauce that, like most dishes here, you never thought you’d find in a strip mall.