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The hearty, carb-laden meals at this humble strip-mall eatery on the west side represent the diversity of Peruvian cuisine, from the seafood dishes of the Pacific coast to the more carnivorous and starchy fare of the Andes and northern coast. All meals start with bread and a creamy, bracingly spicy dipping sauce called aji. Try one of the tangy ceviches, then move to the spit-roasted chicken.