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Every hot meal at this sprawling dining room/catering hub begins with warm teacup bread, a tuft of dinner roll baked inside a cup, that you pull apart in yeasty, butter-topped hunks. It’s a proper prelude to the fancy favorites to come: old-school appetizers like oysters Rockefeller and butter-soaked escargot, salads tossed with inspired housemade dressings (like the kicky cucumber-jalapeño ranch), and entrees with a skilled presentation. The Pipers Chef Steak arrives on a miniature round loaf of bread to elevate it off of the sauced plate. A massive center-cut pork chop is topped with sweet fried apples. Even the fish and chips come out in a newspaper-lined basket. For dessert, do not miss the chance to fall in love with the Pecan Ball all over again—or any of the handful of menu items that replicate the old recipes from that long-shuttered Indy landmark, the L.S. Ayres Tea Room. Yes, that means Chicken Velvet soup is on hand.