Right out of the gate, chef-owner Greg Hardesty had a loyal, nearly cultish, following in his one-meal/one-price eatery. The hot buzz has yet to cool off. Every night, a different four-course lineup is explained briefly on a paper-slip menu and then fleshed out with competent flourish by servers dressed casually in H&M. Recent hits have included a buttery hunk of wild king salmon on a puddle of sweet guajillo squash puree, a pair of seared scallops in a truffled potato broth that called for slurping down to the last drop, and sweetbreads tangled in fresh pasta with capers and currants. Trust the chef. He rarely steers us wrong. Wine pairings (with abbreviated pours complementing each course) are worth the additional charge.

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