Sullivan’s Steakhouse

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In the steakhouse canon, Sullivan’s fills the slot for diners who don’t take the whole genre too seriously. You might even call it the steakhouse for people who don’t do steakhouses. Sure, your server can explain the finer points of why wet-aging is the best way to prep a Kansas City strip (the signature cut), and it will come out exactly as ordered, charred to perfection, but diners here have other things on their minds. The bar and central rooms consistently hit a convivial buzz as servers practically race-walk around men who have ditched their jackets and ties for the evening, women dressed for attention, and groups not worried about getting a little loud. For better or worse, some items on the rangy menu feel populist (the appetizer of cheesesteak eggrolls, while satisfying, belongs downmarket), while others surprise with subtle sophistication (the green beans are cooked tender and enriched with cashew butter). If you forgo beef, the thick, buttery Chilean sea bass with a crackly sear won’t make you regret it.

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