The Sinking Ship

SINKINGSHIP

Spirited by our sudsy first course, we strolled up the street to The Sinking Ship, the gently gritty pub that famously survived a protest by a neighborhood group this summer over the renewal of its liquor license. For a bar that opened just last spring, this storefront tavern with everything from mannequins to nautical pewter plates for decor has the feel of a neighborhood joint that could have been around when I lived two doors down. The wry beer list features everything from Flat 12 porters served in canning jars to Falls City, the Louis-ville original, on draft.

A nicely edited menu includes a smoked-pork salad and the self-proclaimed “Indy’s Worst Pork Tenderloin.” The real showstoppers here are the stuffed cheeseburgers, which take 30 minutes to cook, owing to their two-thirds pound of beef and generous fillings. Though the menu promised it would “explode in your mouth,” we took the chance with a “Blew Damon” (and refused complimentary bibs). What arrived was actually a big, juicy, and not-over-the-top burger with just the right amount of bleu cheese and bacon on a toasted bun, less a pub gimmick and more something you might find in fancier digs.

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