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With all the glass-block charm of an old blue-collar dining hall, Union 50, a subtly retro addition to Mass Ave’s restaurant row showcases executive chef Layton Roberts’s playful, rib-sticking cuisine. Crispy duck-fat fries, sticky chicken wings, and kimchi meatloaf were immediate hits in a dining room decked out in rough wood and sweeping banquettes—the kind of place where Skee-Ball machines don’t look out of place, and homemade cookies are served for dessert without a pinch of irony.