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In a long, spartan dining room with rough-hewn communal tables as the center point, servers at this Mass Ave haunt present handcrafted dishes like ale-steamed mussels, pork schnitzel, and a daily pickle plate featuring the likes of watermelon rind and boiled eggs—all with the kind of rustic edge that makes diners feel like they have just wandered into a well-provisioned farmhouse. Dessert has some winners: If you see panna cotta among the day's offerings, do not pass it up. You will not find a silkier version anywhere in town.
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