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This Meridian-Kessler spot dishes out Martha Hoover's take on pizza—thin-crusted, blistered Neapolitan-style, and iconoclastically topped. Chef Tyler Herald offers light and earthy numbers, like the T Bone Burnett, which comes with caramelized fennel, asparagus, portabella mushrooms, and chevre. Herald gets playful with local and seasonal ingredients, like squash blossoms, beets, pea shoots, and arugula—the undeniable mark of potential Italian greatness. There's also a long list of starters, including housemade ricotta, edamame hummus, and roasted bone marrow. Affordable quartinos of vino rule, along with the housemade gelato. Those looking for a quiet place, beware. The dining room can be rather noisy. Opt for a plush velvet sofette at the wine bar next door, instead.
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