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This northside chain brings the wine-country experience to the Midwest masses. Some of the more overwrought dishes (a trio of adorned medallions, for instance) try a little too hard to please, but the heavy-handed treatment works for excellent gnocchi carbonara, perfectly creamy and thick with pancetta and rotisserie chicken, and a thick salmon filet atop a mound of mashed potatoes drizzled with wasabi butter.
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