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Part of that first wave of good restaurants to venture into the blue-collar territory just south of downtown, Fountain Square's Thai-food favorite (an Ed Rudisell original) is still going strong. It's not because the menu is on the cutting edge of anything. Soothing red and green curries—redolent of coconut milk, Thai chili paste, and fresh veggies sauteed to the appropriate wilting point—play strictly by the book. The same goes for the fresh shrimp-and-chicken spring rolls packed tight and tidy inside a filament of rice paper, and the crab Rangoon, fried crisp around the fluffiest sweet cream-cheese filling. Some of the more specialized dishes, like a tender, chunky-style eggplant stir-fry and a mellow catfish curry, play second fiddle to the more-familiar noodles—and the popular lunch specials (which include a tiny, crisp egg roll and a cup of spicy-tart lemongrass broth) pare down the Thai cuisine canon to a dozen options. Still, every plate hits its mark, perhaps by virtue of Rudisell's Thai-born wife, Sasathorn.
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