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A theme of rich decadence permeates this steakhouse, from the gilded-framed pastoral paintings hung on its dark-paneled walls to the selection of elaborate steaks (one of them drenched in a Courvoisier cream sauce, another sauced with aged balsamic—and some of them dry aged). The truffle fries get a lot of play, but too much pungent garlic ruins them, and the lobster bisque needs more seasoning than the optional drizzle of sherry. Better to start with a crock of French onion soup, its cheeses properly oozing over the rim.
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