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In sedate champagne hues, with crisp white-leather seating, this spruced-up revolving rooftop restaurant is still the Hyatt Regency's crowning glory. Some of the offerings have ambition: A starter of fried sweetbreads wears a respectable strawberry-chipotle sauce, and the meltingly gamey flavor of a rack of elk served medium-rare pairs perfectly with its Cabernet reduction and root-vegetable mash.
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