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For proof that chef Steven Oakley's vivid imagination has not waned since he opened this bastion of nouvelle cuisine in 2002, look no further than the dolloped mousses and drizzled oils that adorn the dishes here, oblivious to what-ever cooking style is currently trending. The light, meticulously plated fare hails from another culinary era—when sprigs of fresh herbs and puddles of purees and gastriques provided the flavor, rather than heavy sauces and hunks of meat. Menu descriptions provide clues as to what might arrive at the table, but remember this: Heads-up on anything that appears in quotes, such as a deconstructed Pecan “Pie” that comes out in tater-tot–sized components on a large white plate and a pressed-meat chicken “Coq au Vin” that looks nothing like the Julia Child standard. The result is somewhere between spectacular and bizarre, but Oakley's food always satisfies a taste for adventure.
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