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We've seen this flick before: gargantuan asparagus draped over sizzling slabs of red meat accompanied by mashed potatoes, creamed spinach, and quartered heads of iceberg buried under a creamy, chunky dressing. With several other chain enterprises dishing out equally well-executed chops within a few suburban miles, it's not always clear what sets this kitchen apart. We, however, return for the wine. Fleming's features 100 wines by the glass, plus a reserve list of about 100 bottles. On any given night, wine director Trad Ireland can be found tableside, demystifying and decanting bottles from the restaurant's 2,400-strong inventory. The list—with its accessible descriptions, fair pricing structure, and flight offerings—is ideal for experimenting.
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