Recess (407 N. College Ave., 925-7529), Greg Hardesty's new SoBro spot, and its opening goes a long way toward easing the pain of Elements' closing. In many ways, Recess is the antithesis of Hardesty's old spot: a small, bright dining room instead of the previous, dimly lit place; spare, cinderblock walls reminiscent of a high school gym, soft gray light fixtures, and old-school fiberglass chairs rather than the sleek Asian style of the old place. And most notably, Hardesty front and center, hard at work in the open kitchen, and greeting guests in the dining room instead of being behind the scenes. Hardesty has said that this is the restaurant he always wanted to open, and it shows: He shines in this space.

The menu is a single five-course, price fixe line-up ($45), with the option of wine pairings for each of the first four courses; both are refreshed every couple of days. Last night's experience started with a shrimp and avocado tostado with jicama slaw, cilantro, and a restrained sprinkle of cayenne pepper (with J Cuvee 20 sparkling wine). The heat was cooled by the soup course—potato soup topped with artful crumbles of homemade chorizo (with Shaya Verdejo Old Vines Rueda). Next up: crisp pork belly atop ponzu-marinated vegetables (paired with our personal favorite, the Odisea Veritable Quandary white), followed by just-warmed slices of tender, medium-rare rib eye with a swipe of horseradish potato puree (with a big, smooth Chateau LaScalle Bordeaux Superieur). Dessert was a little cup of pear and port sorbet finished with hazelnut crumble. (Now is a good time to stop reading, pick up the phone and make a reservation. We'll be here when you get back. All set? Excellent.)

Hardesty stopped by the table and lamented that there were still some wrinkles to smooth out, but if there were issues, we didn't see them. Servers were flawless in their knowledge of the dishes and accompanying wine, and moved as confidently throughout the small dining room as if they had worked in the space for years. Like third-graders being summoned back to class after playtime, we can't wait for another trip to Recess. 

-By Beth A. Clayton


Colts wide receiver Pierre Garcon is having a great year on and off the field, and he'll appear in the February issue of Indianapolis Monthly, on newsstands January 29th, as one of this year's Hot Singles. For more information on the Hot Singles party on February 11th, click here.

Sadly, Garcon has many friends and family members in Haiti, which was rocked by a massive earthquake earlier this week. Click here to support Garcon's relief efforts.