Edited by Beth A. Clayton


Shula's (50 S. Capitol Ave., 231-3900), where the food satisfied, but the service left something to be desired. Despite three servers hovering nearby, we waited several minutes for water. Then we waited for drinks from the bar. Then for the cart presentation. When we asked about the special we had been told about when we made reservations (and that was mentioned in the Dish 1.12) which boasted three courses for $29.95 in honor of Coach Shula's 80th birthday, our server had never heard of the deal*. Disappointed, we ordered six entrees, and the table ordered three sides to share. The food quickly pacified the group. The crab mac 'n' cheese and lobster mashed potatoes were outstanding, the filet and steak Mary Anne—two medallions bathed in a creamy, cognac-peppercorn sauce—were fork-tender. Cowboy ribeye, KC strip, Mahi Mahi, spicy snapper—just right. But alas, by now we were out of water. And our drinks had run dry. A junior server replenished our water, but someone else would have to head to the bar. At the end of the meal, one of the servers brought a piece of cake for our birthday celebrant, along with several forks—most appreciated. But then there was more waiting. For the bill. For the bill to be collected. For the bill to be returned. We arrived around 7:30 and weren't released until nearly 10:00. Our valet, upon retrieving the car, asked us about our experience. The food was delicious, we said, but the service was terrible. He said he hears that a lot.

*It first came to us in an email press release from Shula's corporate.


While the New York Jets took on the Colts on Sunday, Matt Lysiak, a reporter for the New York Daily News, set out in the Circle City in search of authentic New York grub—and was hell-bent on not finding any. After pooh-poohing Giorgio's, King David Dogs, Cadillac Ranch, and Penn Station, he finally found some passable cuisine at Shapiro's. A special thanks to the Colts for saving Mr. Lysiak the trouble of searching for a chocolate egg cream in Miami next month.

At least one New Yorker found some true Indianapolis food—Darrelle Revis, New York Jets cornerback, dined at St. Elmo on Saturday. He and a few teammates were spotted leaving St. Elmo's lower level through an elevator at around 8:30 p.m.


Your favorite meats from Goose the Market (2503 N. Delaware St., 924-4944) may be showing up on plates in more restaurants and hotels soon. Chris and Mollie Eley plan to open the Smoking Goose, a wholesale charcuterie selling cured and smoked local meats, later this spring. While not a retail operation, the spot (tentatively planned for the King Park neighborhood) will be open for tastings and tours, and will also supply the Market. Eley says they hope to market their products to restaurants, hotels, and casinos in Louisville, Bloomington, Cincinnati, and Chicago.

In other Goose news, the near northside shop will add an enoteca in June, a downstairs dining room seating about 20 which will host beer and wine tastings, and will offer a few small plate options. Eley says this will also allow them to expand their beers and wines available for retail.


A bill allowing microbreweries to sell beers for takeout on Sundays was approved by the Senate and will go before the House on Thursday. The bill, sponsored by Ron Alting (R-Lafayette) and Vi Simpson (D-Bloomington), would limit Sunday sales to about three cases per transaction. Wineries are already permitted to sell on Sundays.


Winter may have closed the patio overlooking White River in Broad Ripple, but the inside of Chef J.J.'s Back Yard was hopping last Wednesday night for another Sun King Brewing dinner. Sixteen thirsty epicures—with the forethought to buy tickets before the event sold out two months ago—enjoyed a flight of six Sun King beers paired with four courses. The bitter "Amarillo the Warrior Princess" IPA mixed nicely with spicy shrimp glazed with a red currant chorizo relish. And the "Tipping Point" (candy sugar ale, 10 percent ABV), alongside a tiramisu on a bed of bacon-infused chocolate, lived up to its name. The next beer pairing dinner takes place in April; call 602-3701 for details.


In our haste to share all the culinary goodness coming out of the kitchen at Recess, we goofed on the address! The correct address is 4907 N. College Ave., not 407 N. College Ave. as was reported. Our sincere apologies to Greg Hardesty, Gabe Jordan, and the rest of the Recess team for our oversight. Fortunately, it doesn't seem to have slowed them down much, as rumor has it reservations were hard to come by this weekend.


"I have long believed that good food, good eating is all about risk. Whether we're talking about unpasteurized Stilton, raw oysters or working for organized crime 'associates,' food, for me, has always been an adventure."  

Wake up and smell the coffee, Indy. We sniffed out dozens of spots serving the best pancakes, bacon, waffles, French toast, and eggs the city has to offer, and we tell all in the February issue of Indianapolis Monthly. Check out our top picks, many of them making their first appearance in the pages of IM, when the magazine hits newsstands on January 28th.


January 25 through February 6: Devour Downtown. $30 prixe fixe menus from more than 40 restaurants. Reserve a table here.

February 2: A Classic Party Rental Open House (1333 E. 86th St., 251-7368). 5:30 to 8:30 p.m. Table displays by Annie-O's Events, wine by Vine & Table gourmet market, and food by Jacquie's Gourmet Catering. Free. Call 251-7368 to RSVP.

Through February 28: New Prix Fixe menu at The Capital Grille (40 W. Washington St., 423-8790). Four-course meal including tomato and fennel soup with mozzarella, prosciutto, and basil sandwiches; choice of braised wagyu short ribs, lobster-and-shrimp pot pie, or beef Wellington; and either homemade cookie and ice cream or carrot cake with ice cream and evergreen cinnamon honey. $49 per person.   

March 5: FoodCon, a showcase and exploration of the culture of art and food in Indianapolis, presented by the Harrison Center for the Arts and the Indiana Humanities Council's Food for Thought program. Art exhibitions, poetry, films, lectures, hands-on activities, and plenty to eat. 6-10 p.m. Harrison Center for the Arts (1505 N. Delaware St., 396-3886) Free.


Deano's Vino (1112 Shelby St., 423-3154) in Fountain Square is now doing business as Naptown Juice Bar & Restaurant. The focus remains on wine, though the menu is being revamped. Look for a grand reopening later this spring, to coincide with the conclusion of construction on the Square ... The Red Lion Grog House plans to open February 1st ... The original location of Café Patachou (49th and Penn., 925-2923) closed its doors last week and reopened just next door. The spacious, updated corner location will have outdoor seating in the summer.