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Terry Kirts

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A Fat Sammies/Papa Roux Mashup

The mostly deserted curb next to a torn-up lot at 14th and Meridian didn’t seem a very promising spot for a lunchtime food truck. But soon enough, fans and Facebook followers of Fat Sammies Ciao Wagon started trickling in, hungry for a Sicilian lunch. This relative newcomer onto Indy’s growing food-truck scene prides itself on being a quality “taste” truck with Italian-style subs and sandwiches that won’t weigh you down when you head back to work.

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Review: Seasons 52

By most measures, it was a typical spring Wednesday, cool with drizzle. But in the parking lot of Seasons 52, the latest high-profile franchise to populate the Fashion Mall, the buzz resembled a VIP gala. Orange pylons blocked the better portion of the parking spaces, and valets sprinted to fetch keys. Inside, nearly every seat in the place was taken. Clearly something special, some of-the-moment trend, had drawn out this many diners on such a dreary day.

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Revisit: Boogie Burger

Somewhere between a patio barbecue and a walk-up Dairy Queen, the adorably quirky digs of the original Boogie Burger won us over from the start. Tucked inside a broom closet next to what is now Ripple Inn, this lovably shabby burger joint gave off an undiscovered vibe, even four years after it opened and lines were curling out the doors on summer evenings. We were always surprised that a place this humble could put out such scrumptious fare: two-handed, well-seasoned burgers with unexpected toppers like grilled pastrami, peanut butter, and fried eggs. On the side, deeply golden fries were flecked with fresh garlic and parsley.

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Scratch That

If Mayor Ballard’s office hasn’t declared this the official “Summer of the Food Truck,” it ought to. Just about every time you turn a corner downtown, another blocky, retro trailer has its awning out, and a cheery short-order cook is handing an office worker or a foodie with a good GPS a sack of tasty lunchtime victuals.   The latest motorized munchies maker to  attract a dedicated fan base is

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Roll Model: A Review of Sensu

Editor’s Note, June 22, 2012: Sensu announced early this month that it will no longer serve dinner. It will, however, remain an upscale nightclub and special-event venue, with Asian-inspired catering services available.  You get the sense, stepping off Meridian Street into the vaulted pleasure palace of Sensu, another in Jeremiah Hamman’s growing portfolio of luxe […]

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Fade to Black Market

Was it the backwards bicycle rickshaw parked by the front door that intrigued us the most? Or was it the dollop of slightly chunky peanut butter on the house pickle plate at Black Market (922 Massachusetts Ave., 822-6757), delicious but served without so much as a cracker for dipping or spreading, that made us go “hmm”? “People eat it all kinds of ways,” co-owner Ed Rudisell said from behind the bar, smiling. “We don’t dictate how customers

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You Say You Want a Revolucion

Fountain Square’s growing bar and dining scene just got a little edgier with the opening, on June 14, of Revolucion (1132 Prospect St., 423-9490), the latest funky enterprise of Fountain Square fixture David “Tufty” Clough. Altars to Our Lady of Guadalupe (though sadly with battery-operated candles), vibrant paintings of gun-slinging skeletons in sombreros (compliments of artist Shelby Kelley), and a tiki bar in the back all contribute to the rich atmosphere of this new cantin

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Europa, Europa

European markets, bakeries, and restaurants have come and gone in Indy over the years. We’re still mourning the passing of Russia House, with its mushroom soups and tangy cherry dumplings. And Slaviansky Bazaar in Carmel barely got up and running before it closed, taking its Russian beers, stuffed zucchini rolls, and delectable veal roll with it. Now Lou Mladenovic, who has long operated a beloved deli, bakery, and Old World market in Crown Point has opened a second loca

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WEEKEND IN REVIEW: Byrne’s Grilled Pizza

A mixup on times for food carts lead us down a tasty trail on Friday at Flat12 Bierwerks (414 N. Dorman St.) after we biked to the Holy Cross neighborhood for lunch. We had anticipated the grand opening of Scratch Street Food, promising a burger with bacon marmalade, arugula, and gorgonzola. But we didn’t read their Twitter post that they wouldn’t be at Fla

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Stuck in the Middle

Meridian Restaurant & Bar (5694 N. Meridian St., 466-1111)

An ice-cream sandwich on a bar menu? Why not, when there’s a good hit of bourbon in the housemade vanilla ice cream sandwiched between chewy chocolate-chip cookies? The bar menu is only available weekdays from 4

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Review: The Local Eatery & Pub

The well-behaved kids coloring on butcher paper at the next table didn’t clue us in to the culinary aspirations of chef Craig Baker’s kitchen. Nor did the plasma screens streaming basketball scores—though one TV in the bar was tuned to Rachael Ray perkily whipping up another quick weeknight supper. Mixed messages aside, we’d been tipped off to the ambitions of Baker, who honed his skills in several Portland restaurants before heading up the kitchen at Casler’s in Geist and working the pizza station at Napolese. We hadn’t driven out to Westfield to a restaurant called The Local just to nosh on humdrum pub grub, after all.

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Atlas, Un-Shrugged

If you’ve spent the last decade pining for Atlas Supermarket’s famous Chicken Salad Veronica or Grandma’s potato salad with plenty of crunchy bits of celery and sweet pickles, then you might not know they’ve been lurking in one form or another in Carmel all the while. Now you can buy selected favorites, including hummus and tabouli, on Saturday mornings at the Broad Ripple Farmers Market, as well as at the Fishers and Binford Farmers Markets.

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Business Is Booming at the New Boogie Burger

It may have moved to its new digs because of growing pains at its original location, but customers are already lined up out the door and filling every seat at the new Boogie Burger (1904 Broad Ripple Ave., 255-2450). If that address sounds familiar, that’s because it’s the landmark home of the old Wild West-themed Tin Star, known by Indianapolis children for decades as the place whe

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Review: Tavern on South

Given the stranglehold sports fans have on this town, as well as a certain big game Indy expects to host next winter, it’s surprising that the two-story brick storefront near the industrial corner of South and Minnesota streets remained untapped as long as it did. Little more than 100 feet from Lucas Oil Stadium, Tavern on South is a spiffy surprise—a sportingly handsome spot where your game-day eats might be drizzled with a shagbark hickory–soy syrup or arrive with a side of pistachio couscous.

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Review: Michael's Southshore

As a rule, suburban strip-mall eateries aren’t known for being innovators in fashion-forward decor or cutting-edge cuisine. Too often, they’re stop-off points to grab a pint or some stick-to-your-ribs grub when you don’t want to drive into the city. Something about the spacious storefront at 11705 Fox Road, nestled as it is among the tree-lined curves of Geist Reservoir and sporting sky-high ceilings and a rustic stone fireplace in the bar, always seemed to require a more substantial establishment, and while a string of eateries have tried to capitalize on the space’s charm, it wasn’t until I entered Michael’s Southshore, the latest tenant, that I felt a destination restaurant had arrived.

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