Dining

It is difficult to imagine a cozier retreat from the winter chill than Meridian Restaurant & Bar (5694 N. Meridian St., 317-466-1111), a charming log cabin built in the 1800s, with dark wood, a stone hearth, and windows overlooking Meridian-Kessler. To receive the most transcendent culinary experience, though, set the menu aside and allow chef Dan Dunville to choose the evening’s feast for you. As we did. After starters of meaty and succulent quail grilled and served with lemon Parmesan kale risotto, and roasted beets with tarragon, apples, and white pepper (with the perfect amount of acid) came the liquid goodness of Meridian’s smoky, warm corn soup. The puree of roasted corn, parsnips, and bacon is flecked with red pepper and drizzled with oil made from herbs de Provence. Entrees were the house’s go-to dry-rubbed pork tenderloin, with flavors of cumin, chorizo, and red chile, and scallops drizzled with lingonberry, apple, and balsamic sauces. We could not have picked a better and more satisfying rotation of plates ourselves. 

When the history of cuisine in the United States in the 20th century gets written (it’ll take some time to get some real perspective), there can be no question that chef Charlie Trotter will have a place in the pantheon. His eponymous Chicago restaurant ranked with French Laundry, El Bulli, and other temple destination as one of the places anyone serious about dining needed to visit—not to mention served as a training ground for an emboldened generation of chefs, including the likes of Grant Atchatz and others. On New Year’s Eve, he announced that his cozy place would close in August, after its 25th anniversary. Get your reservations … now.   There is a good summary in the Chicago Tribune, as well as a Sun-Times piece from New Year’s Day. (Props to that scrappy newspaper, which broke the story.)

The belovedly funky but now slightly dated Shelbi Street Cafe has changed its name to the verbose End of the Line Public House (1105 Shelby St., 317-687-4857), promising a slice of Indianapolis history and the best selection of local craft beers. We popped in to see the changes over the weekend. But not all that much has changed here, save for a row of historical photos of such classic Indianapolis sights as the streetcars for the old Interurban system–which is where the restaurant gets its new name.

New to the Mass Ave corridor is a vodka-meets-video concept that fills a gap in the city's bar scene. Tini (717 N. Massachusetts Ave., 317-384-1313) opened on Dec. 13 to much buzz from those who can't get over the idea that "Video Killed the Radio Star," which is, not coincidentally, the first music video that owner Brad Kime played. The visuals are colorful and lively, of course, and the rest of the room complements those video clips, which skew evenly across classic and current. You’ll get both your Bruce Springsteen and your Beyonce here.

Got food lovers on your Christmas list? Fill their stocking with the season's most tasteful treats.

We love the holidays, but let's face it—those annoying, meddling mamas (honey, where are your cheekbones?) and out-of-control little ones hopped up on sugar (vroom) make them a challenge. A few tips on how to cope: