Dishes of the Year: Ceviche Mixto at Mama Irma Restaurant
By Brandon Canfield of The Loft at Traders Point Creamery
As a chef, my hours can be a strain on my betrothed, who holds a normal work schedule. Saturday mornings have become a special time for us to be together and explore the local ethnic food scene. It’s an untraditionally romantic hour, when the day’s burdens have yet to unnerve the mind and attention is not dispersed to life’s minutiae.
The true star of the Saturday excursions is the ceviche mixto at Mama Irma’s (1058 Virginia Ave., 317-423-2421). Waiting a quarter-hour for the mix of shrimp, tilapia, Peruvian-grown corn, and potatoes feels relaxed when you know it’s being made with the love of a matriarch. This time is crucial to a ceviche—it allows the citric acid to do its work, resulting in fish that’s not raw and not mushy. Gently seasoned and filled with vitality, it is authentic food cooked from the heart.