Let’s Do Brunch: Hipster Brunch

Brunch is the new black.

March 2017Add a comment

Eggshell Bistro
The vaguely French jazz tinkling over the speakers at this Carmel spot is the kind of music Woody Allen might play over the black-and-white opening credits of one of his latter-day movies set in Paris. The furnishings might have been plucked from the perfect marché aux puces; fresh flowers grace each little marble-topped table; and coffee-making is a serious art form here. So you probably won’t choke on your brioche when you find out that owner and chef Larry Hanes also has a master’s degree in design. He has laid out a lovely setting for dining on cherry-studded buckwheat waffles topped with seared duck breast and charred salsify root prepared with white pine needles. Adventurous diners might gravitate toward something like Hanes’s kedgeree, sorghum-glazed wild salmon smoked in-house and dished up with rice, onion, capers, scallions, and a soft-boiled egg. Brunch hours: 7 a.m.–1 p.m. Wed.–Fri., 7 a.m.–2 p.m. Sat.–Sun. 51 W. City Center Dr., Carmel, 317-660-1616, eggshellbistro.com

The Gallery Pastry Shop
SoBro’s unabashedly hip, Parisian-style bakery draws throngs on weekends for the 10 hours a week during which it serves brunch. A diner known for his love of simple, straightforward American food was along for the ride one Sunday. Could a bacon-and-eggs kind of guy appreciate a place where freshness trumps quantity and the pancakes come in the form of crepes? When the food arrived—sweet crepes with caramelized bananas; a French omelet topped with lightly curling greens; Kitchen Sink Hash bound with Tulip Tree Creamery beer cheese—our friend decreed, “Really good food here. Really good.” Brunch hours: 10 a.m.–3 p.m. Sat.–Sun. 1101 E. 54th St., 317-820-5526, gallerypastryshop.com

The Garden Table
Instagram’s match made in heaven, The Garden Table has been a Broad Ripple staple since it opened in

Hippie Porridge from The Garden Table

2014, looking like a modernist market stand framed in chalkboard walls and exposed brick. Gwyneth Paltrow would not look out of place nibbling on a broiled grapefruit while perched on one of Tolix barstools at the window. Earlier this year, a second (slightly buzzier) location opened on Mass Ave. Both iterations dish out the kind of colorful, fresh cuisine that fits the brunch-all-day-every-day mode. Hippie Porridge tops oatmeal with seasonal fruit, honey, raw chia, and hemp seeds. The Lox Toast is made with house-smoked salmon. Silver-dollar blueberry pancakes arrive as a tower of thick medallions. You’d be remiss if you didn’t add in one of the cold-pressed raw juices, like the Amped Almond or the sweet, summery Lush Love, which contains watermelon and basil. If you can’t pick just one, a flight of four samples in little glass bottles covers the spectrum of flavors and health benefits. Broad Ripple brunch hours: 8 a.m.–3 p.m. Tues.–Sat., 9 a.m.–3 p.m. Sun. Mass Ave brunch hours: 8 a.m.–3 p.m. Mon.–Fri., 9 a.m.–3 p.m. Sat.–Sun. 908 E. Westfield Blvd., 317-737-2531; 342 Massachusetts Ave., 317-638-0321; thegardentable.com

Mimi Blue Meatballs
You’ll be tempted to stick with the familiar regular menu available on weekend mornings. Just don’t skip over the limited brunch menu completely. The lemon-thyme pancake balls and French toast are sweet additions on a mid-morning visit. Additional items include Eggs Gerry (a Benedict stand-in) and biscuits and gravy, both topped with the signature classic meatballs. Brunch hours: 10 a.m.–2 p.m. Sat.–Sun. 870 Massachusetts Ave., 317-737-2625; 12505 Old Meridian St., Carmel, 317-564-8524, mimibluemeatballs.com

Revery
Joke all you want about the State Fair–ification of the Hoosier diet—how you can dip anything in batter, drop it in hot oil, and declare it a blue-collar delicacy. Chicken-fried bacon at Revery is a game changer. Lengths of pork encased in a crackling sheath are crossed upon each other in an asterisk of fat and decadence, a cardiologist’s worst nightmare. Drizzled with hot honey, the bacon stars on a brunch menu that has no shortage of showstoppers. A flatiron steak and eggs is dressed with smoked butter over crisp house fries. The patty melt gives a wink to breakfast fare, with a sunny-side egg layered in with the caramelized onions and Thousand Island dressing. As for the charcuterie-laden Bloody Mary that comes with its own little bottle of Tabasco sauce? Graze prudently. You’ll want to save room for more bacon. Brunch hours: 10 a.m.–2 p.m. Sun. 299 W. Main St., Greenwood, 317-215-4164, reverygreenwood.com

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