May 2018 First Bite
An Indian grocery with a strong chaat game, brat-braising with John Adams, and other news from Indy’s dining scene.
Discovery: Noor Indian Grocery & Kitchen
With so many buffets and fusion spots offering curries and rice dishes around Indy, it would be easy to miss another storefront Indian joint at the city’s edge. But the bright, well-stocked Noor Indian Grocery & Kitchen (8028 S. Emerson Ave., 317-559-6624), opened in November by Sarbjit and Satbir Bhangu, is a great place to pick up the goods for an Indian dinner party. True to its name, the shop also offers a surprisingly verdant menu of thalis and dosas. Just don’t ask for chicken tandoori or lamb korma; everything here is vegetarian, from the rich and flavorful matar paneer with cheese and peas to the roasted-eggplant baingan bartha to breads like simple roti or potato-stuffed paratha. A small selection of chaat items, popular Indian street-food favorites, includes the vibrantly garnished samosa chaat with chickpeas, hearty samosas, yogurt, and a tangy tamarind chutney, perfect for a teatime pick-me-up or a satisfying takeout lunch.
POWER LAUNCH Last month, Kimbal Musk opened his 175-seat Hedge Row American Bistro on Mass Ave. IN THE MIX Fat Dan’s Deli owner Dan Jarman is turning the former Ironworkers Bar at 1101 English Avenue into a swanky old-school joint called Geraldine’s Supper Club & Lounge. THE WHOLE ENCHILADA Downtown’s Urban Eats Grill & Cantina covers all of the bases—tacos, tortas, burgers—in its new South Meridian Street location.
Pinch of Wisdom
“Slow-braising bratwursts in beer before grilling helps ensure they won’t burst over a hot fire. Choose a mild German-style beer with minimal hops.The reduced beer is an excellent flavor enhancer for sautéed onions or sauerkraut.” — John Adams, indoor chef at Big Lug Liter House, the new “Bavariana” Texas-Germany barbecue spot to open next month in the former Bent Rail Brewery