New in Town: Sushi Boss

A fresh counter-service joint whips up made-to-order rolls.

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1214-SUSHIBOSSUntil now, local sushi fans have let their chefs decide what goes into their predetermined rolls. Since early August, however, persnickety seafood-lovers have had the decision-making power at entrepreneur Jason Hornberger’s Sushi Boss, a fresh new counter-service joint near IUPUI. A former Kilroy’s manager who owned and sold restaurants in both Fort Wayne and Carmel before enrolling in business school here, Hornberger saw similar custom sushi bars when traveling. After six years of planning, he opened his own sleek spot where customers can create made-to-order rolls stuffed with a range of options, from tofu to yellowtail, as well as unexpected cooked ingredients such as roasted chicken and beef short ribs.

For the indecisive, the menu suggests eight signature rolls, including the Wicked Spicy Tuna (pictured), which marries chopped fresh tuna with cucumber, avocado, and green onion, drizzled with plenty of “Boss” sauce—a concoction of Sriracha, mayo, and sesame oil. Sides include salads of calamari and lightly sauced seaweed, though the generous-looking bowls gave way to beds of shredded daikon and carrot that could have used some dressing. But with rolls wrapped in either seaweed or soy offering nearly a dozen pieces, customers hardly need any add-ons for a hearty lunch or dinner. Diners can also choose a half-and-half roll with different ingredients and sauces, which adds to the novelty of peering over the counter to watch your meal come together. 803 W. 10th St., 317-955-2677, sushibossindy.com

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