Restaurant Guide Update: December 2018

A tour of the city’s best dining. New and updated: Black Market, Tony’s Steaks and Seafood, Turchetti’s Salumeria, and Anthony’s Chophouse

December 2018Add a comment

Black Market ★★★
After a seven-year run of pickle plates and Welsh rarebit, owner Ed Rudisell scrapped lunch service and, with the help of recently departed founding chef Micah Frank (replaced by Esteban Rosas), pushed the menu at this Mass Ave standard bearer closer to the classics of the Mediterranean, with just enough seasonal American eats to recall its farm-to-table roots. Decadent marrow bones, roasted figs, and cured-trout latkes star among the small plates, but the pastas (dressed with braised rabbit or beef-and-pork ragu) are now some of the best Italian dishes in the city. A grilled whole fish, seared duck breast, and, yes, a burger that’s as much a knockout as the one that anchored the menu since the beginning have been hits among the larger plates, which are geared toward expert wine pairings. Dinner Tues.–Sat. 922 Massachusetts Ave., 317-822-6757, V $$$$

Tony’s Steaks and Seafood ★★ 
Standards abound at downtown’s latest chophouse franchise with roots in Cincinnati and Lexington. Elegantly presented oysters, mussels, and calamari tossed with pepperoncini and cherry tomatoes top a list of mostly seafood appetizers, but don’t miss what has to be one of the city’s biggest crab cakes, mounded on a swath of tangy mustard aioli. A special seasoning blend of paprika, sea salt, and pepper means New York strips and bone-in prime ribeyes have an especially flavorful char while being perfectly lush and tender inside. Yet seafood offerings are just as respectable, especially Chilean sea bass sauced with a maple-sage emulsion and served with al dente barley, caramelized onions, and shaved Brussels sprouts. The brick-lined, above-street bar in the former home of Colts Grille now serves up fish tacos, stuffed burgers, and truffle potato wedges in urban-chic environs. But no matter where you sit, the doting staff will do its best to make you feel a part of the family. Dinner daily, 110 W. Washington St., 317-638-8669, $$$$

Turchetti’s Salumeria ★★
Fans of old-school Italian delis will dig the vibe at George Turkette’s storefront showcase of his expert salamis and deli meats in the heart of Fountain Square. Already well-known at gourmet shops and restaurants for his city ham, pepperoni, and cold-smoked bacon, Turkette lets his playful side run in this lunch spot and happy-hour hangout with windows into the cutting and curing rooms of his growing butcher business. A delectable pastrami Reuben, a homey Indiana ham sandwich, and the Rosino sub with a taste of just about every style of cured meat are solid bets, served on waxed paper–lined trays. But a smash burger (a nod to the famous Workingman’s Friend “deluxe”), as well as a fried turkey leg fit for the State Fair, show Turkette’s skills as short-order cook as well as butcher. Craft beers, wines, and grab-and-go gourmet items make this as much a place to pop in as to linger with the growing crowd of regulars. Lunch and dinner Fri.–Sat., 1106 Prospect St., 317-426-3048, $

Anthony’s Chophouse ★★
Massive double doors marked with a scripty “A” welcome diners to this swanky heavy hitter along Carmel’s bustling Main Street. The interior has the polished gleam of a brand-new Vegas hotel, with an upper-level lounge containing the salvaged mahogany bar from The Glass Chimney, a far-northside legend that defined fine dining for decades. The food at Anthony’s has just as much flourish. Lobster bisque containing a hunk of tempura-fried meat and a wedge salad with all the frills head up a meal that might include a bone-in cowgirl ribeye or a flight of filets. Black-suited servers and well-composed cocktails keep the high-dollar meal running smoothly. Dinner Mon.–Sat. 201 W. Main St., Carmel, 317-740-0900, $$$$

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