Best New Breweries: Deviate

If a taproom makes its beers this hard to acquire, the suds better be great. And they are.

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This northwestside brewery lives up to its name in a few ways. Homebrewers Greg Ortwein and Mike Orkey founded the place in an unusual location: a strip mall with a view of two interstates. They decided not to distribute, so commuters filling growlers on the way home from work are about the only people who get to enjoy the product. And the beers deviate so far from tradition that some people might be scared off by the descriptions—a mistake we urge you not to make.

Consider the Liquid Thai’d, a brown ale that achieves the impossible feat of incorporating the peanut, pepper, lime leaf, and coconut flavors of a Thai dinner in a light, tasty beverage. Or the Dill With It IPA, whose subtle dill and cucumber notes make it much more refreshing than that variety tends to be. Food flavors dominate the rotating menu here, which includes only one regularly occurring selection: the Hop Supremacy IPA, a piney, citrusy brew that competes with the finest of its type in the market. BeerAdvocate magazine named Deviate one of the best new breweries in the country in 2015, an honor only one other place in Indiana (Round Town) can claim.

Beyond the fantastic suds, there aren’t many reasons to hang out in the taproom. The only sustenance found on the large communal tables is complimentary popcorn and takeout from nearby restaurants. And the classic rock on the stereo may or may not appeal. Despite the lack of food, though, Deviate offers foodies something just the same: an adventurous meal in a pint.

4004 W. 96th St., 317-374-8249, deviatebrewing.com

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