IN 2006, when Tasawar Awan opened Magoo’s California Pizza at 38th Street and Georgetown Road, local pizza options were mainly the standard thin crust, hand-tossed, or deep-dish styles. A Pakistani entrepreneur who’s lived in Southern California, Awan knew how popular pizzerias that wove in South Asian flavors could be. So he decided to start his own.
The cuisine known as halal or Indian pizza got its start in San Francisco in the 1980s soon after an innovator named Dalvinder Multani moved from India to Queens, New York. He worked at East Coast pizzerias for a few years, then moved to the Bay Area and bought a longstanding pizzeria, where he augmented its menu with foods from his homeland. Patrons of his business, Zante Pizza and Indian Cuisine, urged him to marry the two. The combination was an immediate hit and swiftly spread along the West Coast, then across the country.
The fusion makes sense, given that flatbreads such as naan, paratha, manakish, and lavash—all baked at high temperatures in tandoors or brick ovens—are some of the most common breads east of the Mediterranean. These bubbly, charred-edge delights are often spread with garlic, oil, and zesty seasonings such as the oregano-based za’atar and are commonly stuffed with tasty fillings like spinach, herbs, or paneer. Fountain Square’s A Cup of Chai is an excellent example of that iteration, with butter chicken spread across a soft, warm naan and topped with cheese.
Jasvir Singh, owner of southside counter spot Spicy Doner, spent nearly two decades in Europe cooking up pizza and doner kebabs. The latter is a favorite takeout dish in Italian cities like Milan and Brescia, where Singh’s son Jassi was born, and when the Singh family moved to Indy, they brought the dish with them. Singh spares little spice in his chicken tikka masala and paneer tikka pizzas, which are made with a Midwest-meets-New-York-style crust. A version with shawarma is a particular standout, while proteins like shrimp, marinated lamb, and sliced kebabs are a break from the standard pepperoni and sausage. Heat fans should seek out Spicy Doner’s green chile, cilantro, and curry toppings for an extra kick.
In-the-know customers at Awan’s groundbreaking westside pizza spot ask for their pie “Indian-style,” which in Magoo’s case means a handful of chopped ginger is added to the mix. Another hit is the house special “white sauce,” a creamy, garlic-heavy topping that pairs well with chicken tikka over a mid-thickness crust. Other offerings to try include his
Pashtun-style cumin and fenugreek-spiced chapli kebab version, which offers an excellent lesson in the California trend. He also caters to Hoosiers whose faiths steer them away from pork, offering beef-based versions of traditional cured meats and sausage for those who keep halal.
California Love
Indian pizza is one of America’s hottest pizza trends. Here’s where to find it in Indianapolis.
Magoo’s California Pizza
The OG of “Indian-style” pies, this is the place to start for ginger-spiked chicken and ground meat kebab pizza with Tasawar Awan’s signature rich white sauce.
Mr. A Pizza and Wings
This Fishers spot known for its “big wings” and Insanity Stix is perhaps the only spot to get tangy achari, a pickled spice blend, on pizzas with chicken and paneer tikka, as well as milder butter chicken pies. 9516 Haver Way, 317-343-2900
Pizza Palace Halal
This Michigan Road takeout shop is as popular for its gyros as its pizzas, but don’t sleep on a delectable shrimp curry pie, as well as a house special with marinated lamb shoulder, garlic sauce, and green and red peppers. 7940 Michigan Rd., 317- 974-9041
Spicy Doner
Owner Jasvir Singh’s two decades of working in pizzerias and kebab shops in Italy shows in the delicious blend of standard and Indian styles. A kicky chicken tikka pie is a customer favorite. 8028 S. Emerson Ave., 317-294-4015
