Dan Jarman’s beefy sandwich shops don’t claim to specialize in brisket, and yet the slices of fat-laced muscle meat that emerge from their smokers in the perfect ratio of meat to grease to burnished edge achieve something few legit houses of barbecue can muster. The word “wings” appears nowhere in its name, but you won’t find smoked appendages more tender or rosy-fleshed than the ones here. And their sizzled tavern-style patties could headline at any high-end burger joint. The only thing Fat Dan’s doesn’t seem to do better than anyone else is wallow in self-congratulation.
EDITOR’S CALL
Can’t decide? Wearing stretchy pants? Go for the $15 flight of three scaled-down burgers or sandwiches.
5410 N. College Ave., 317-600-3333; 410 E. Michigan St., 317-600-3008
