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New in Town: Sushi Boss

Until now, local sushi fans have let their chefs decide what goes into their predetermined rolls. Since early August, however, persnickety seafood-lovers have had the decision-making power at entrepreneur Jason Hornberger’s Sushi Boss, a fresh new counter-service joint near IUPUI. A former Kilroy’s manager who owned and sold restaurants in both Fort Wayne and Carmel before enrolling in business school here, Hornberger saw similar custom sushi bars when traveling. After six years of planning, he opened his own sleek spot where customers can create made-to-order rolls stuffed with a range of options, from tofu to yellowtail, as well as unexpected cooked ingredients such as roasted chicken and beef short ribs.
For the indecisive, the menu suggests eight signature rolls, including the Wicked Spicy Tuna (pictured), which marries chopped fresh tuna with cucumber, avocado, and green onion, drizzled with plenty of “Boss” sauce—a concoction of Sriracha, mayo, and sesame oil. Sides include salads of calamari and lightly sauced seaweed, though the generous-looking bowls gave way to beds of shredded daikon and carrot that could have used some dressing. But with rolls wrapped in either seaweed or soy offering nearly a dozen pieces, customers hardly need any add-ons for a hearty lunch or dinner. Diners can also choose a half-and-half roll with different ingredients and sauces, which adds to the novelty of peering over the counter to watch your meal come together. 803 W. 10th St., 317-955-2677, sushibossindy.com

A graduate of IU’s Master of Fine Arts program in creative writing, Terry Kirts hails from a town in Illinois so small it didn’t have a restaurant until he was in the 8th grade. Since 2000, he’s more than made up for the dearth of eateries in his childhood, logging hundreds of meals as the dining critic for WHERE Indianapolis, Indianapolis Woman, and NUVO before joining Indianapolis Monthly as a contributing editor in 2007. A senior lecturer in creative writing at IUPUI, Terry has published his poetry and creative nonfiction in a number of literary journals and anthologies, including Gastronomica, Alimentum, and Home Again: Essays and Memoirs from Indiana, and he’s the author of the poetry collection To the Refrigerator Gods, published by Seven Kitchens Press in 2011.
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