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New in Town: The Ville

With the help of Food Network’s Buy This Restaurant, Keith and Raquel Brooks picked a 3,800-square-foot former car showroom in the heart of downtown Noblesville to house their dream restaurant, The Ville. The acquisition also landed them on a March 2014 episode of the show. So much for making a quiet arrival on the northside dining scene.

The longtime owners of Special Occasions Catering, popular with patrons of the Noblesville Farmers Market for its barbecued specialties, the Brookses brought considerable experience with them to The Ville, including Keith’s six-month internship at the legendary Commander’s Palace in New Orleans. And while their renovation of what was for 15 years Eddie’s Corner Cafe aims at shabby chic, The Ville’s menu aspires to fine dining with a twist (and a price tag to match).

Don’t miss the tableside Caesar, which offers both a bright take on the often-overdressed salad and a chance to chat with gregarious night chef Marc Fry. Entrees let the skill of Keith’s kitchen shine in dishes such as a juicy, thick-cut pork chop with ultra-smooth whipped potatoes and a spot-on ginger-glazed Chilean sea bass with nicely browned carrots, daikon, and shiitake mushrooms. 101 N. 10th St., Noblesville, 317-774-5301, dineattheville.com

A graduate of IU’s Master of Fine Arts program in creative writing, Terry Kirts hails from a town in Illinois so small it didn’t have a restaurant until he was in the 8th grade. Since 2000, he’s more than made up for the dearth of eateries in his childhood, logging hundreds of meals as the dining critic for WHERE Indianapolis, Indianapolis Woman, and NUVO before joining Indianapolis Monthly as a contributing editor in 2007. A senior lecturer in creative writing at IUPUI, Terry has published his poetry and creative nonfiction in a number of literary journals and anthologies, including Gastronomica, Alimentum, and Home Again: Essays and Memoirs from Indiana, and he’s the author of the poetry collection To the Refrigerator Gods, published by Seven Kitchens Press in 2011.
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