Restaurant Guide Update: February 2019

A tour of the city’s best dining

Geraldine’s Supper Club & Lounge ★1/2

Already famous for the slow-smoked brisket, Chicago dogs, and loaded burgers at his two Fat Dan’s Deli locations, restaurateur Dan Jarman goes upscale at this retro homage to his mother and the swank dinner draws of his youth. Exposed brick from the former Ironworkers Corner Bar and a lacquered wood bar set the scene for a lounge-like atmosphere worthy of Dean Martin. Fun takes on classic cocktails include a color-changing gin and tonic and a dirty martini with a rosemary sprig and blue cheese–stuffed olives. Jumbo prawns with cocktail sauce, crab cakes, and oysters Rockefeller are familiar steakhouse starters, but broiled tomatoes are a recipe straight from Jarman’s mother. Homey split pea soup is a surprise among more traditional French onion and wedge salads, and steaks include throwback cuts such as tender Chateaubriand and a buttery, juicy boneless Delmonico ribeye aged for 60 days. Dinner Tues.-Sun., 1101 English Ave., 317-600-3336, $$$$


The Inferno Room ★1/2

A hit both at the beginning of the night and the end of it, this tiki-centric showstopper in Fountain Square pairs its gilded cocktails with a fun menu of smallish plates with an island influence. Delicate yuca nachos are finished with pickled red onions and chimichurri. Kebabs impale pork, jerk chicken, and yams. Pork lau lau bathes the shoulder in coconut cream and lemongrass, and salty Spam sliders are the perfect foil to a sweet and fruity drink served over crunchy ice. But the real star is the Hawaiian-plate lunch favorite, loco moco, layering Spam, fried egg, and meatloaf over sticky rice with brown gravy. Dinner Mon.–Sat. 902 Virginia Ave., 317-426-2343, V $$


Field Brewing ★★

This Westfield addition to the local craft brewery scene would be dazzling enough for its mod fixtures, bocce ball court, and secluded sipping room. But owners Gregory and Jackie Dikos—he an orthopedic surgeon–turned-homebrewer, she a registered dietitian and champion distance runner—pegged former Cerulean chef Alan Sternberg to craft their menu, which is as daring as it is easy to pair with the Dikoses’ house brews. Crispy, meltingly tender lamb ribs topped with chimichurri are a standout small plate, and ubiquitous roasted Brussels sprouts are some of the best in town, deeply caramelized with just enough maple syrup and generous hunks of smoky bacon. Pastas, Sternberg’s current fascination, top most at local Italian spots, especially tender ricotta gnocchi tossed with butternut squash or light-as-air pasta ribbons made out of the grain left over from the beer-making process and tossed with broccolini, chickpeas, and an aromatic harissa butter. Chops, steaks, and salmon mean celebration dinners are in order, as well as more casual snacking with a brown ale or an Extra Special Bitter. Dinner Mon.–Sat., 303 E. Main St., Westfield, 317-804-9780, V $$


Eddie Merlot’s ★1/2

Though there’s plenty of sumptuous style in the northside outpost of this Fort Wayne–based chain, substance still wins out. Case in point: three options of finely marbled Wagyu beef, ranging from 5 to 20 ounces, all the way from Australia. Among the USDA Prime choices, the filet mignon and New York strip, velvety, juicy, and lightly seared, do not disappoint. Roasted salmon, blackened scallops, and king crab legs satisfy pescatarians, while starchy side dishes slathered in cream and/or cheese abound. Eddie’s potatoes are a solid bet, but the creamed corn, slightly sweet with bourbon and jalapeños, is a favorite. Dinner daily. 3645 E. 96th St., 317-846-8303, $$$$