SOURDOUGH BAGELS. VEGAN doughnuts. Birria tacos. And hot dogs, hot dogs, hot dogs. In past years, these artisan dishes were the stars of funky culinary events frequented by in-the-know foodies looking to score some small-batch delicacies. During the pandemic, however, these occasional (though increasingly weekly) offerings took over restaurant kitchens during off hours. This year, they often serve a different purpose: keeping out-of-work chefs, bakers, and other industry professionals cooking. With low overhead and the ability to switch up small menus on a whim or take orders ahead of time, many cooks and producers found new outlets for their kitchen talents. Pop-ups are less taxing and volatile than restaurant settings, and restaurateurs can get some much-needed foot traffic at down times or while they were closed to dine-in customers. So it’s a win-win, a refreshing food concept that will be sticking around for the foreseeable future. Here are a few of our favorites:
Shoyu Shop
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Run by: Kyle Humphreys, recently of Lil Dumplings
Past appearances at: The Signature Table at Fishers Test Kitchen, King Dough
Get: Any ramen or dish with noodles crafted on an authentic Junchu noodle maker
Good to know: Soon available full time at Strange Bird in Irvington.
Sidedoor Bagel
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Run by: Josh Greeson, who formerly worked in real estate
Past appearances at: Amelia’s Bread, Tinker Coffee, Commissary
Get: The pumpernickel bialy or cacio e pepe bagel
Good to know: Weekly delivery and pick-up orders are available, and a storefront is planned for fall.
Indy Dough
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Run by: Self-taught baker and podcast host Amanda Gibson
Past appearances at: Studio C, Commissary, Amelia’s Bread
Get: Gibson’s vegan take on a classic old-fashioned
Good to know: Gibson’s avid fans help sell out stock fast, so get there early.
Misfit Indy
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Run by: Former Rook chefs Adam Ditter and Jordan Wiler
Past appearances at: Milktooth, Bluebeard, Sam’s Silver Circle
Get: Puffy, rich, and delectable Korean egg bread
Good to know: A menu of funky, Asian-inflected bar snacks and sandwiches is now available nightly at Tini.
Thin Glizzy
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Run by: Gluten-free baker Grace Seibert and former steakhouse chef Chris Trevino
Past appearances at: Tube Factory, Dorman Street, Bluebeard
Get: The Korean Army stew dog with spicy-sweet tofu, fried ramen, and enoki mushrooms
Good to know: Thin Glizzy’s dogs are handmade of beef and spices in natural lamb casings.
Porch Pizza
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Run by: Certified wild mushroom identification expert and forager Eric Neylon
Past appearances at: Milktooth, Tini, local fundraisers
Get: The Korean Banchan pizza with homemade kimchi and gochujang
Good to know: Neylon forages many of the ingredients he includes on his pies.
Fat Uncle Pop Ups
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Run by: Former Ukiyo and Festiva cook Matthew Janney
Past appearances at: Half Liter BBQ, Black Acre Garden
Get: Janney’s quirky versions of Southeast Asian hawker-stall cuisine
Good to know: “Uncle” is a common Asian moniker for any unknown man.
Gordito’s Rust Belt Tacos & Tortas
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Run by: Michigan native Levi Kinney, who full-times at One Trick Pony
Past appearances at: The Signature Table at Fishers Test Kitchen
Get: Any of the birria-style tortas or tacos on offer
Good to know: Dipping is de rigueur, so have plenty of napkins on hand.
Sam’s Square Pies
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Run by: Film and video producer Jeff Miner
Past appearances at: Half Liter BBQ
Get: The Bitchin Camaro Detroit-style pizza with three types of pepperoni
Good to know: A brick-and-mortar location in the Garfield Park neighborhood was in the works all summer.
Con Todo
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Run by: Former Black Market chefs Esteban Rosas and Gabriel Sañudo
Past appearances at: Bluebeard, Strange Bird, Fishers Test Kitchen
Get: Al pastor and carnitas tacos in fresh corn tortillas
Good to Know: You can hire Con Todo to cater a private taco party, complete with a vertical broiler so every bite of al pastor is fresh cut from the spinning spike.
