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May’s First Bite

A nouveau beer hall, global fusion at Comida, and food-and-drink news.

Revist: Half Liter

Somewhere between Munich and the barbecue pits of middle Texas lies the kind of cheeky, Alpine-themed ribs-and-brisket joint only Blake Ellis and Eddie Sahm could dream up. With its picnic-table seating, Bavarian tilework, and flag of the Lone Star State emblazoned on the high-pitched walls, it’s a place where you can feel free to wear your lederhosen or your 10-gallon hat—or both. Built onto the backside of Liter House, Sahm’s new-German beer hall that made its debut last July, Half Liter marries textbook dunkels and bocks with pit master Ellis’s slow-smoked meats. Not to miss is the brisket, fall-apart tender with chewy lacquered edges. Get it on a platter with tangy collard greens and crispy Southern cornbread. Wings rubbed with a Memphis spice come with both ranch and hot sauces for custom dipping, and ribs are meaty and succulent, especially when drizzled with sweet cola barbecue sauce or the yellow Carolina version with a serious vinegar punch. 5301 Winthrop Ave., 317-221-2800

New In Town: Comida

Tacos filled with General Tso’s chicken and burritos stuffed with char siu pork may evoke the first bites of the food-truck cuisine that rolled into Indy more than a decade ago. Served up in a ground-floor space that has seen its share of tenants over the last few years—from Plow & Anchor to The Taco Shop—this kind of global fusion anchored in Latin staples seems new again at downtown newcomer Comida. Cousins Lance George and Eric Shorts, owners of Pinnacle Catering, along with Rami Lazarus, are banking their round-the-clock, counter-service food stop will have more staying power. Coffee drinks and pastries sourced from Saraga International Grocery in the morning and flaky empanadas, Asian-inspired tacos, and large plates later in the day demonstrate the range of George, who handles kitchen duty. Can’t decide on a dinner choice? Go for the migos platter loaded with Cantonese-style ribs, adobo chicken, and Latin-spiced pulled pork. 43 E. 9th St., 317-426-4392

Indy Food News

  • Brownsburg’s Rush off Main became the first restaurant to take up residence in the town’s Union Green mixed-use complex. It’s one preposition away from predecessor Rush on Main in Zionsville.
  • Metazoa Brewing Co. plans to open a taproom along the Canal in Broad Ripple next year.
  • Cunningham Restaurant Group added downtown bakery Croûte to its repertoire.

and

A graduate of IU’s Master of Fine Arts program in creative writing, Terry Kirts hails from a town in Illinois so small it didn’t have a restaurant until he was in the 8th grade. Since 2000, he’s more than made up for the dearth of eateries in his childhood, logging hundreds of meals as the dining critic for WHERE Indianapolis, Indianapolis Woman, and NUVO before joining Indianapolis Monthly as a contributing editor in 2007. A senior lecturer in creative writing at IUPUI, Terry has published his poetry and creative nonfiction in a number of literary journals and anthologies, including Gastronomica, Alimentum, and Home Again: Essays and Memoirs from Indiana, and he’s the author of the poetry collection To the Refrigerator Gods, published by Seven Kitchens Press in 2011.
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