Tony Valainis
Revist: Half Liter
Somewhere between Munich and the barbecue pits of middle Texas lies the kind of cheeky, Alpine-themed ribs-and-brisket joint only Blake Ellis and Eddie Sahm could dream up. With its picnic-table seating, Bavarian tilework, and flag of the Lone Star State emblazoned on the high-pitched walls, it’s a place where you can feel free to wear your lederhosen or your 10-gallon hat—or both. Built onto the backside of Liter House, Sahm’s new-German beer hall that made its debut last July, Half Liter marries textbook dunkels and bocks with pit master Ellis’s slow-smoked meats. Not to miss is the brisket, fall-apart tender with chewy lacquered edges. Get it on a platter with tangy collard greens and crispy Southern cornbread. Wings rubbed with a Memphis spice come with both ranch and hot sauces for custom dipping, and ribs are meaty and succulent, especially when drizzled with sweet cola barbecue sauce or the yellow Carolina version with a serious vinegar punch. 5301 Winthrop Ave., 317-221-2800
New In Town: Comida
Tacos filled with General Tso’s chicken and burritos stuffed with char siu pork may evoke the first bites of the food-truck cuisine that rolled into Indy more than a decade ago. Served up in a ground-floor space that has seen its share of tenants over the last few years—from Plow & Anchor to The Taco Shop—this kind of global fusion anchored in Latin staples seems new again at downtown newcomer Comida. Cousins Lance George and Eric Shorts, owners of Pinnacle Catering, along with Rami Lazarus, are banking their round-the-clock, counter-service food stop will have more staying power. Coffee drinks and pastries sourced from Saraga International Grocery in the morning and flaky empanadas, Asian-inspired tacos, and large plates later in the day demonstrate the range of George, who handles kitchen duty. Can’t decide on a dinner choice? Go for the migos platter loaded with Cantonese-style ribs, adobo chicken, and Latin-spiced pulled pork. 43 E. 9th St., 317-426-4392
Indy Food News
- Brownsburg’s Rush off Main became the first restaurant to take up residence in the town’s Union Green mixed-use complex. It’s one preposition away from predecessor Rush on Main in Zionsville.
- Metazoa Brewing Co. plans to open a taproom along the Canal in Broad Ripple next year.
- Cunningham Restaurant Group added downtown bakery Croûte to its repertoire.
