Recipe: Kristen York’s Macaroni Genovese

The Thunderbird chef takes the traditional comfort dish in a decadent direction.

As the new chef at Thunderbird, Kristen York’s task was to elevate the food menu at a spot known mostly for its masculine vibe and cocktail program. “I worked with the bartenders to create food that matched the feeling of the cocktails. What would you think about eating when you’re drinking these juices or spirits? So it’s not necessarily pairing specific drinks with specific food, but making sure it gels and is cohesive.” Here, York shares her recipe for a tricked-out macaroni dish:
Macaroni Genovese

  • 1 pound pasta (rigatoni, penne, or pappardelle)
  • 3 pounds beef brisket
  • 2 tablespoons flour
  • 3 large sweet onions, thinly sliced
  • 2 tablespoons olive oil
  • 3 cloves garlic, finely minced
  • 1 cup of non-oaky white wine (Pinot Grigio or Sauvignon Blanc. No chardonnay.)
  • 8 cups beef stock (or better-than-bullion)
  • 3 sprigs of fresh thyme
  • 3 sprigs of fresh rosemary
  • 2 ounces of Pecorino Romano, grated
  • kosher salt and fresh-ground pepper


  • Clean and trim brisket. Season liberally with salt and pepper, dust with all of the flour.
  • In a large Dutch oven or heavy-bottomed pot, add olive oil and bring to medium heat. Add brisket and sear both sides.
  • Remove brisket from pot and set aside. Add half of the thinly sliced onions and sauté until softened, about 5 to 7 minutes. Add shaved garlic.
  • Deglaze pan with 1 cup of wine, scraping all of the browned bit from the bottom of the pan and incorporating it with the wine.
  • Retrieve wine glass from cupboard. Finish bottle while making this delicious dish.
  • Add brisket back to pan and cover with beef stock. Add fresh thyme and rosemary.
  • Bring to a boil. Reduce to simmer, and cook uncovered for 1.5 to 2 hours. Add the remaining onion and simmer an additional 2 to 4 hours, until onions have completely melted, broth is reduced, and brisket is fork tender. Season with salt and black pepper. Remove brisket to a plate and shred with fork.
  • Boil pasta in salted water until al dente. Drain but don’t rinse. Toss some of the pasta in the sauce. Slice brisket and serve over pasta. Top with grated pecorino.