Tony Valainis
Eggshell Bistro
51 City Center Dr., Carmel, 317-660-1616, $$
Approaching its 10-year anniversary at Carmel City Center, this eccentric and lovable brunch spot, as noted for its antiques-store decor and tableware as for its cuisine, more and more has the feel and palate of globetrotting owner and chef Larry Hanes. Think of it as a J. Peterman for the culinary world without all the goofy swagger. Coffee and tea arrive in conversation pieces while vintage French pop plays in the background, and many dishes are served in miniature cast-iron Staub skillets. Whatever it is, you can bet on an aromatic mélange of flavors from around the word, such as Moroccan shakshuka with baked eggs, goat cheese, and za’taar infused with rose petals. A hearty mushroom strata is enriched with rabbit sausage and smoked gouda, then finished with a bright and earthy hazelnut romesco. More common but no less artful fare comes in the form of a textbook quiche or a rosemary ham tart with Swiss chard and gruyère. And save room for a pastry from the case up front.
(Eggshell Bistro is currently closed during the COVID-19 stay-at-home orders.)
Rize
The Yard at Fishers District, 317-843-6101; 2721 E 86th St., Suite 120, 317-843-6101, V $$
Cunningham Restaurant Group’s Rize is that rare restaurant that has something for all appetites and dietary needs, and everything on the spectrum is equally delicious. It’s hard to find a place that has chia seed pudding with coconut milk and fresh fruit on the menu and brioche cinnamon rolls with orange glaze. Eating clean and want a beet salad? Check. Feeling hangry and want chicken hash with gravy, crispy potatoes, and a sunny-side up duck egg? Check. You can even have a mimosa with probiotic-packed kombucha.
(Cunningham Restaurant Group will temporarily close all locations for dine-in and remain open at select locations for carry out and delivery for guests. This includes Rize.)
Brozinni Pizzeria
8110 S. Emerson Ave., 317-865-0911, $$
Owner James Cross grew up in New York, and everything on the menu is named after an iconic NYC location, from the Madison Square Garden sandwich (meatballs, mozzarella, and marinara) and Hell’s Kitchen calzone (Frank’s hot sauce, chicken, mozzarella, and bacon) to the Canal Street Pizza (pepperoni, sausage, bacon, black olives, red onions, and green peppers). Don’t skip the garlic knuckles, crafted from housemade pizza dough that’s curled into knots and drenched in garlic butter. Save the extra sauce pooling at the bottom of the basket for your pizza crust–dipping delight.
(Brozinni has decided that they will not open their dining room until restrictions are lifted so that they reach maximum capacity. Until then, they are still offering carry out services and will have pizza-by-the-slice available daily.)
Homey Hot Pot & Sushi Buffet
3649 Lafayette Rd., 317-295-1982, $$$
A calculated approach is wise for diners considering the mounds of fish balls, shrimp, sliced meats, veggies, and greens at this one-of-a-kind Asian buffet where customers cook their own food in bubbling pots at their tables. First, choose a base broth from simple original to hot and spicy or Mandarin duck soup. Then go for a judicious combo of meat and seafood, as well as mushrooms, aromatics, and greens to add freshness. And don’t forget the sauces, anything from simple soy to peanut sauce to lightning-hot chili paste. While you’re at it, pick up some sushi made fresh throughout the day, but go light on the pre-made Chinese stir-fries, which are better at many nearby Lafayette Road takeout spots. Finish with cakes, ice creams, and other sweet and crunchy snacks, but be warned that a fee may be charged for uneaten food.
(Homey Hot Pot has decided to close operations until further notification.)
