Farm-table standards get a glossy do-over at this hotel restaurant tucked just off the polished marble lobby of the Omni Severin. The dining room, all dark lacquer and leathery browns, feels a bit stuffy, but diners easily warm up to a menu that includes a root-beer–cured pork chop as big as a catcher’s mitt, topped with sweet bacon marmalade; and half a chicken roasted to a juicy, rosy hue and plated with succotash and a little tin pan of sweet corn “milk” (like the cream off of creamed corn) for dipping. The sides—such as herb-crumb–crusted macaroni-and-cheese pie and sauteed Brussels sprouts—get passed around the table. Vintage cocktails (“cobblers,” “sours,” and “long drinks,” including a crisp, bracing raspberry rum Collins with a sprig of mint) come courtesy of the mixologists at the Severin Bar next door.

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