Adventurous diners get their fix at this bustling Fletcher Place spot that has taken on such seemingly challenging nibbles as grilled octopus, gourmet pork cracklings, and pig-face Asian buns. The dishes are executed almost flawlessly by a kitchen staff whom you may reward with a round of PBR (it’s actually on the cocktail menu) and presented by delightfully low-key servers who will not bore you with every little detail about your sweet-potato orzotto, but probably know enough about it to write a dissertation. The menu, which changes daily, lists the smallest portions on top, building up to entrée-size offerings, such as a strip loin plated with root-vegetable hash. Pick multiple items and share with the table. Better yet, take a seat at the Bread Bar so that you can chat with the staff over a quartino of red wine. Lunch Mon.–Fri., dinner Mon.–Sun. 653 Virginia Ave., 317-686-1580, V $$


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