Delicia

With ambient lighting, glass arched accents, white-glazed brick walls, and exposed woodwork, this is not your typical Latin spot. The upscale fare melds all the styles of that culture, not representing just one country or cuisine. Every meal starts with sancocho, a tasty shot of broth flavored with chicken and pork. Regional wines and cocktails dominate the drink menu, including prickly-pear cactus juice and not-too-sweet margaritas. Among a variety of rotating dishes, these emerge as winners: the rich, delectable queso fundido with chorizo, melted Chihuahua and panela cheeses, and a tomato-poblano sauce; a trio of juicy scallops wrapped with Serrano ham and topped with matchsticked radishes and a fantastic lemon-cava sauce; and the velvety, not-too-soggy tres leches sponge cake.

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