Eddie Merlot’s

This sprawling surf-and-turf Ft. Wayne-based chain is big on gilded picture frames, menus the size of stone tablets, and other not-so-subtle touches. Theatrics get the upper hand in the case of a few items: shrimp cocktail with a dry-ice presentation and an exquisite scarlet-centered Wagyu ribeye (from a cow that was massaged and fed sake in the Japanese tradition, servers explain). But the dishes do not disappoint, from well-executed standards like a warm artichoke dip that focuses more on the veggie than the cream base to a rustic bone-in filet.

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