Ocean Prime

While this polished Cameron Mitchell chain with nearly a dozen locations nationwide offers several swaggering cuts of red meat (with the accompanying steep tabs), Ocean Prime shines brightest with its seafood dishes. Starters like a trio of plump shrimp in a Tabasco-tinged broth and a rich lobster bisque poured tableside over a clump of torn lobster meat set the tone for luxurious, smartly plated mains. Blackened snapper, moist inside its spice dredging, gets additional flavor from a light butter sauce and a dollop of jalapeño tartar. Seared scallops sit on top of Parmesan risotto, the richness cut by slivers of pickled red onions. The optional potato sides supply starchy decadence in the form of oversized Gouda-spiked tater tots and candied yams with marshmallow brulee. The crisp design (heavy on the dark-wood veneer and cruise-ship curves) sets a lavish tone indoors, and the furnished outdoor deck has a cabana vibe.

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