Recess

Since 2010, chef Greg Hardesty has kept it simple at his one-meal/one-price restaurant, where the nightly four-course lineup typically highlights a soup and salad starter, a beautifully adorned protein (like Nordic halibut atop sweet potato puree and glazed Brussels sprouts), and a dessert. Last fall, the veteran chef freshened the SoBro mainstay, absorbing his adjoining Room Four eatery into Recess and devoting a new portion of its little paper menu to raw-bar selections, ranging from a colorfully decorated plate of sashimi to Washington State oysters to big bowls of chirashi—a Japanese dish of scattered sushi.

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