A longtime veteran of the libations scene, Joshua Gonzales opened his Fountain Square watering hole just as the mixology trend was entering its twilight. Accordingly, instead of dainty Gatsby-esque sippers, the concoctions that the ’tenders muscle together behind Thunderbird’s scruffy-chic bar are solid, generally brown, and unapologetically boozy. The food gives gloppy Southern standards some inspired tweaks, as in cheddar-grit fries with maple-bourbon aioli, pimento cheese galore, and the menu’s contribution to the Hoosier hipster canon: dense, powdery biscuits and duck gravy topped with a fried egg. Skip the humdrum desserts, though. Order another drink (and an Uber) instead.

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