Union 50

With all the glass-block charm of an old blue-collar dining hall, this subtly retro addition just off Mass Ave’s restaurant row showcases playful, rib-sticking cuisine. Crispy duck-fat fries, sticky chicken wings on seaweed salad, and kimchi meatloaf were immediate hits. And steamed mussels in a broth chunky with chorizo and fingerling potatoes never disappoint. The dishes are served in a dining room decked out in rough wood and sweeping banquettes.

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