By contrast, Collins loads her 16-harness, 48-inch loom with sustainable alpaca, silk, and bamboo. “My signature line is a silk-and-bamboo blend that is very fine yarn,” she says. “It’s really lightweight and drapes beautifully.” Just how lightweight? Such a scarf measuring roughly 11 inches wide and 86 inches long includes over 1 mile of yarn and weighs just four ounces. Depending on dimensions and material, Collins’s scarves cost $250 to $345.
Long before she handles a single thread, however, Collins uses computer-aided design to draft patterns and experiment with color combinations. She continually asks herself, Where am I going to place these colors so that the pattern is still front and center? Once she has a design in mind, she “dresses” the loom, which can hold four or five pieces at once. Inserting the hundreds of delicate yarns takes a few days, and the actual weaving takes up to 15 days.
To finish each piece, she gathers, twists, and knots its ends to create decorative fringing. She also “wet-finishes” each item with a gentle soaking in water and an ironing at a low temperature. “Anything you weave is really stiff when it first comes off of the loom,” she says. “It’s that wet-finishing and ironing that gives it the softness and luster.”